LED Pirep

[Michaelpk3]

I found a good LED replacement for the Whelen A508 rear position bulb. Slightly less bright but for the 2A drop and $6 price tag, you can't beat it. It make a nice addition when replacing the two nav light with LED bulbs.

Sylvania Zevo 194 LED (12V, 6000k)


http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q...psifdjidun.jpg

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q...psnnn1uawt.jpg

[6 Gun]

Could not open photobucket could you print bulb number and source.
bob

[Michaelpk3]

Added bulb info. Direct drop in replacement

[Dugaru]

A major improvement - plenty bright, easy to replace, cheap, and saves power. What's not to like?!?

[cyrus]

I looked into an LED bulb replacement but for me, the .5-.7w wasn't bright enough. The Whelen A508 halogen is 25w of incandescent and I wanted all my lights to be much brighter than the original.

I ended up buying a Feinix Cannon hideaway strobe and wired that in ($60 ebay). Definitely more work than a bulb replacement but in the end I was able to use the base of the Whelen to mount it into. It's 48w of insane LED brightness with selectable strobe patterns and 3 positive leads so I have a steady and strobe option set on mine. It was so awesome I also but one in place of my belly strobe and wired them together so they're in sync.

http://www.feldfire.com/Feniex-Canno...MaAs1fEALw_wcB

[Dugaru]

That is very cool. I have no doubt that this thing outperforms my old-school Whelen strobes at a fraction of the heat and cost. Think of the money I'd save not having to replace melted wingtip lenses!

Does a light fixture on an experimental need to be "certified," or is it anything goes?

Originally Posted by cyrus

I looked into an LED bulb replacement but for me, the .5-.7w wasn't bright enough. The Whelen A508 halogen is 25w of incandescent and I wanted all my lights to be much brighter than the original.

I ended up buying a Feinix Cannon hideaway strobe and wired that in ($60 ebay). Definitely more work than a bulb replacement but in the end I was able to use the base of the Whelen to mount it into. It's 48w of insane LED brightness with selectable strobe patterns and 3 positive leads so I have a steady and strobe option set on mine. It was so awesome I also but one in place of my belly strobe and wired them together so they're in sync.

http://www.feldfire.com/Feniex-Canno...MaAs1fEALw_wcB

[RV7A Flyer]

Originally Posted by Dugaru

Does a light fixture on an experimental need to be "certified," or is it anything goes?

Now you've done it...

[BobTurner]

Originally Posted by Dugaru

Does a light fixture on an experimental need to be "certified," or is it anything goes?

Look in your Op Limits. The standard verbage allows you to fly at night (which otherwise is not allowed by the FARs) if you follow the FAR rules on equipment. So the answer is 'no', the nav lights do not need to carry a TSO. But yes, they must meet the specs published by the FAA (color, brightness, viewable angles, etc). So it is not 'anything goes'. The burden is on you, as the owner/operator, to demonstrate that the lights meet the requirements. This is for FAR required lighting for night - nav lights and anti-collision light(s). Landing lights are not required, so you may do as you please there.

[Boyd Birchler]

The Sylvania Zevo 194 LED, I'm guessing most of the LED bulb is made out of plastic, while the original was/is glass. My tail light has a strobe tube circling around the bulb, it gets pretty hot. Is it going to melt the bulb?