Nutplates...do you re-tap them?

[RandyAB]

I'm finding that the nutplates that I have been installing are incredibly tight when I try to insert the hardware meant for that nutplate. I actually snapped a screw on the access panels for the trim on the elevators. I ended up having to run a tap through each of them so I wouldn't have to torque so hard. Yesterday I inserted the bearings into the larger nutplates for for the elevator and rudder and boy were they tight as well. The hardware that I used is correct and I used Beolube.

I was wondering if builders regularly re-tap the nutplates before installing them?

[Carl Froehlich]

No - using Boelube should be adequate.

Carl

[sibriggs]

Yes, but don't run the tap all the way in, just a couple of turns so you only loosen it up just a bit, but it it will still hold torque, Some plates in non critical areas when the screws don't play a structural role, such as an interior panel may be tapped deeper.

[BillL]

Generally tapping at all is a bad idea, but I have gotten some off branded ones that had over crimped lower ends and were extremely tight. There are some nut plates that have a coating just for this reason.

I always use liquid boelube but have resorted to a tap for a few turns for some 4-40 screws. (shame on me)

Oh - always use steel screws to break in the new ones, not stainless screws.

[vernon smith]

Using Torx screw rather then Phillips will solve the problem immediately. A little lube on the threads is good also. If you go with Torx be sure to buy good tools, Snap On or Mac are the best domestic but the Dewalt driver bits available at Home Depot are just as good and much cheaper. They are also good for Phillips bits.

Another big problem is not using the right size bit or screwdriver. You need the exact Torx bit ( 15,20, or 25) and either a #1,2 or 3 Phillips. The wrong bit (end) will strip out the head real fast, especially in the SS screws the aviation industry likes.

[RV6_flyer]

Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich

No - using Boelube should be adequate.

Carl

If you do not have Boelube, Bee's Wax or even candle wax work well. I have a block of Bee's Wax purchased at a 'Gun Show' that is what I first reach for. May have something to do is that what we used at work over 30-years ago.

[RandyAB]

Originally Posted by vernon smith

Using Torx screw rather then Phillips will solve the problem immediately. A little lube on the threads is good also. If you go with Torx be sure to buy good tools, Snap On or Mac are the best domestic but the Dewalt driver bits available at Home Depot are just as good and much cheaper. They are also good for Phillips bits.

Another big problem is not using the right size bit or screwdriver. You need the exact Torx bit ( 15,20, or 25) and either a #1,2 or 3 Phillips. The wrong bit (end) will strip out the head real fast, especially in the SS screws the aviation industry likes.

The head didn't strip, the bolt sheared right off!

In Canada we have Robertson square heads that are much better than Phillips heads. I don't know if they are used south of the border at all.

[RandyAB]

Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich

No - using Boelube should be adequate.

Carl

With great difficulty it seems.

[RandyAB]

Originally Posted by RV6_flyer

If you do not have Boelube, Bee's Wax or even candle wax work well. I have a block of Bee's Wax purchased at a 'Gun Show' that is what I first reach for. May have something to do is that what we used at work over 30-years ago.

Good to know!

[wirejock]

Originally Posted by sibriggs

Yes, but don't run the tap all the way in, just a couple of turns so you only loosen it up just a bit, but it it will still hold torque, Some plates in non critical areas when the screws don't play a structural role, such as an interior panel may be tapped deeper.

I do it this way too. Boelube on the tap.