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08-17-2017, 01:18 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Locust Grove, GA
Posts: 2,626
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Sorry to hear you are having problems. I've built 2 of the 10's and installed 3-bladed MT's on both of them, and installed 3-bladed MT's on others. I've never had to remove the spinner. I do have the slot lengthened on the bottom cowl, and then covered with a filler plate when it is installed, and I do remove the nose gear fairing.
Scott is right on that you don't want any preload or the hinges will break for sure. I've always used a .040 or stiffer plate across the aft bottom cowl, riveted to the fueselage in place of the hinges, and then 6 each 10/32 screws across each bottom, left and right of the exhaust stacks. It seems to carry the load better (the 10 cowl is heavy). On 10's with the hinges they seem to need replacing every so often.
The slot for the nose gear begins 10" AFT of the inlet scoop on mine.
Vic
__________________
 Vic Syracuse
Built RV-4, RV-6, 2-RV-10's, RV-7A, RV-8, Prescott Pusher, Kitfox Model II, Kitfox Speedster, Kitfox 7 Super Sport, Just Superstol, DAR, A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor, CFII-ASMEL/ASES
Kitplanes "Unairworthy" monthly feature
EAA Sport Aviation "Checkpoints" column
EAA Homebuilt Council Chair/member EAA BOD
Author "Pre-Buy Guide for Amateur-Built Aircraft"
www.Baselegaviation.com
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08-17-2017, 01:44 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Nolensville, TN
Posts: 34
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You might also talk to Saint Aviation....They have a neat way of splitting the bottom cowl in half for ease of removal.
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08-17-2017, 11:32 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
Posts: 1,065
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No, it's not easy.......
However, i have now got the knack and can do it relatively painlessly with 2 people without disassembling anything else. Bit late now, but a decent gap between the spinner and cowl helps - I have 1/4 to 3/8". Second, you must extend the gear slot by about 10" (sorry, can't measure right now) and use a removeable cover plate.
Start with the cowl tilted up at the back and (pretty obviously), the lower blades at 4/8 o'clock. You should then be able to slide the cowl over the gear fairing and under the blades. Then tilt it so that the back is slightly lower, get it as far back as possible and bring up. The baffle seals around the air intake are going to foul underneath the baffle ramps and it takes a fair amount of "persuading" to get them past. Some people recommend using stiff wire to pull them through but brute force also works..... It is a tight fit behind the spinner but it will go. Once you get here, you are home and dry and it just requires a bit of jiggling to get it in place. Make sure you have all the baffle seal material lying in the right place before you start fixing anything.
Hope this helps. You'll love the prop.
__________________
Paul
Mercy Air, White River FAWV
RV-10 ZU-IIZ - "Zeus"
Building Bearhawk Bravo - RV-18 not available
2019 Donation Made
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08-18-2017, 07:58 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skymanw
You might also talk to Saint Aviation....They have a neat way of splitting the bottom cowl in half for ease of removal.
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I wonder if Jesse could be persuaded to post some pics or a video demonstrating the split lower cowl configuration.
Threads like this cause me to make mental notes-to-self, such as: 1) skip the hinges everywhere on the cowl. Buy once, cry once.
2) sexy three-blade props cost more to go slower. Don't set yourself up to wrestle the lower cowl off around one of these beauties, or you'll skimp on good maintenance and inspection habits to avoid the hassle.
Maybe Jesse has a workaround for the above with the split lower cowl. 
__________________
Bill Boyd
Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction
donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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08-18-2017, 10:10 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
Posts: 1,065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd
sexy three-blade props cost more to go slower. Don't set yourself up to wrestle the lower cowl off around one of these beauties, or you'll skimp on good maintenance and inspection habits to avoid the hassle.
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It's not just about being "sexy". Yes, the 3 blade is supposed to be a few knots slower in the cruise but take-off and climb are supposedly improved. My AP looks after several RV-10s and mine is the only one with the MT prop - he has remarked on several occasions about how smooth it is. The composite prop just takes away all the harshness. I'm happy to trade a couple of knots for less vibration.
Yes, the lower cowl removal can be a PITA but it only took me a few removals to get the hang of it. Whilst I am sure it is not as easy as the 2 blade, it is no longer a major issue. All things being equal, it only has to come off at the 50 hour oil change. Since that can't be done without removing the lower cowl, I fail to see how any inspections can be skimped on.......
__________________
Paul
Mercy Air, White River FAWV
RV-10 ZU-IIZ - "Zeus"
Building Bearhawk Bravo - RV-18 not available
2019 Donation Made
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08-18-2017, 10:32 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,189
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And...
I find it kind of amusing the talk about the 3 blade being a couple of knots slower in cruise seeing as a bunch of people fly the ten at less than max speed anyway, to get the fuel flow lower...
Thought about the two blade and opted for the MT three blade...
__________________
Bob
Aerospace Engineer '88
RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
EFII System 32 - Done
297 HP Barrett Hung
ShowPlanes Cowl with Skybolts Fitted - Beautiful
Wiring...
Dues+ Paid 2019,...Thanks DR+
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03-12-2018, 05:18 PM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wahpeton, ND
Posts: 167
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MT prop and Skybolt
Was wondering if anybody has installed the Skybolt on the horizontal cowl split line that has a 3 blade prop.
It was brought to my attention that you cannot get the lower cowl off if you have both the 3 blade prop and the skybolt fasteners.
The reason is the lower cowl apparently wont fit under the prop with the skybolt flanges sticking up.
Thanks for any help.
__________________
Brian Steeves
#40955 RV-10 - N413BS - Sold
It is Airworthy and Flying. But are they ever done?
First Flight 9/28/2013
#41714 RV-10 - N272BS
Phase 1 Finished, Getting Painted
#120849 RV-12 - N112AB
Flying. First flight Nov 26, 2017
Challenger II - N272MP - Sold
First Flight in 2011
www.briansrv10.com
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03-12-2018, 08:43 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,189
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cowl
I have the showplanes cowl with skybolts at all joints.
The showplanes cowl allows for a substantial slot in the lower cowl allowing it to
drop almost straight down. I don't think it will be an issue...
__________________
Bob
Aerospace Engineer '88
RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
EFII System 32 - Done
297 HP Barrett Hung
ShowPlanes Cowl with Skybolts Fitted - Beautiful
Wiring...
Dues+ Paid 2019,...Thanks DR+
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03-13-2018, 03:24 AM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 421
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Follow Vic's post suggestions. I did that and it works great. I wouldn't split the cowl in half. I have to believe a split cowl hinged together for installation must be weaker than a not split composite cowl. The value of the 3-blade MT outways the additional few modifications noted. You will be happy with the end product.
__________________
Dennis
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