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  #11  
Old 03-04-2012, 06:47 AM
Av8torTom's Avatar
Av8torTom Av8torTom is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Yardley, PA
Posts: 1,334
Default Run Conduit

I think it will make your life a lot easier some day. I used drain PVC tube. It's lighter wall than supply PVC.



Also used these supports (with pull rivets - put an aluminum washer under the rivet head to spread the load some) from the plumbing supply store:

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  #12  
Old 03-04-2012, 10:40 AM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
Default No conduit in wings on mine

I ran one spare 18 ga wire in each wing. I did not want my wires chaffing loosely inside conduit. It did not make sense to me to run tefzel wiring, then enclose them inside something so flammable. Another reason my plane has very little interior. I put everything that one will ever need inside a 5/8" bushing at wing root then reduced down after ap/roll trim wires were dropped off and continued to tip with 3/8". Not impossible to access through bottom insp panels and tip if needed.
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  #13  
Old 03-04-2012, 02:21 PM
terrye terrye is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 860
Default Aluminum Conduit

I decided to separate my antenna wires from the strobe and resistive load wires. The latter go through snap bushings in the rib holes closest to the spar and are secured to the spar at each inspection panel hole. The antenna wires go through aluminum conduit (using the smallest wall thickness listed in ACS) which is supported by the snap bushings in the ribs in the "alternate holes" in the Van's wing wiring PDF. I didn't like the flammability of the plastic conduits and the thin wall aluminum tubes are light. The main reason I like the rigid aluminum tubing is to guarantee no contact with the control pushrods.
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  #14  
Old 03-09-2012, 10:40 PM
SHIPCHIEF SHIPCHIEF is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,412
Default

I went with the PVC irrigation pipe.
Being smooth, it's easy to pull wire thru, and will be later if I need to redo anything.
I drilled the ribs just aft of the spar, as low as possible. The wire enters the fuse just below and forward of the aeleron push rod holes.
I don't think that was the best spot, the pitot tube is supposed to enter there on the left wing (RV-8). Mighta' painted myself into a corner there.
I "searched" this thread because of what terrye did: separation of antenna wires from stobe and resistive loads (lights)
I bundled all of them together, relying on the coax to shield the NAV signal.
Does anyone have a comment?
Those who have run antenna wire with strobe and landing/position lights, do you have quiet radio?
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  #15  
Old 03-10-2012, 10:07 AM
Joe Parish Joe Parish is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 209
Default

Scott,

I was planning on separating my antenna wires from my landing light and strobe wires but talked to Jeff from Steinair and asked if I needed to use rg-400 for my antennas and he said they strongly recommended it. The RG-400 is double shielded to help prevent any issues with interference. I am using shielded wire for my Nav/stobes and intend to use shielded wire for the radios and head sets. He ran his that way on a RV-6 or 7 and said he has had no problems. I now plan on running them thru the same hole. That is what I remember from our conversation but don't hesitate to call and talk to him if you have questions. They are always very helpful when I call with questions.
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Last edited by Joe Parish : 03-10-2012 at 10:08 AM. Reason: Correct name
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  #16  
Old 08-16-2017, 01:19 PM
saabman910 saabman910 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL
Posts: 16
Default

For those that have used Home Depot aviation conduit, what did you do at the exit holes (pitot heat, stall warning, A/P servo) to prevent chafing against the plastic tube.
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  #17  
Old 08-16-2017, 01:46 PM
Tankerpilot75 Tankerpilot75 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 534
Default Added conduit

The RV7A I purchased two and a half years ago did not use conduit inside the wings. I had to move two magnetometers because they were two close to the comm antenna and install them at my wing tips. To protect that wiring and allow for future changes I ran flexible conduit (Lowes). Trust me, it's a lot easier to do it during construction then post construction. But in all honesty, it wasn't truly difficult to do post construction.

As for running wire through ribbed conduit - a piece of cake. Just get some kite string, a small piece of cotton ball to secure the end of the string to and then shoot it down the conduit using air pressure from your compressor. Take about one second! Then tie the string to your new wire and pull it through.

If your worried about the weight or fire impact of the conduit I suggest you're worrying too much about trivia. So many other things will burn before conduit (i.e. Fuel) and the weight added is only a few ounces. Well worth the chaffing protection it provides.
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  #18  
Old 08-16-2017, 03:50 PM
Sam Staton Sam Staton is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Green Cove Springs, FL
Posts: 234
Default Burning conduit

I have heard this concern mentioned before. I submit that if the conduit in your wings is burning, you 'may' just have other, more serious issues to deal with. If it bothers you., don't do it. I am going to do it because I don't want to have to deal with wire chafing on metal edges.
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  #19  
Old 08-16-2017, 06:05 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Conduit

Add one more in the conduit group. I also planned it so coax could be separated.
If it means anything, my career was Telecom Management. Pathways are cheap and easy during construction.
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  #20  
Old 08-17-2017, 07:02 AM
saabman910 saabman910 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL
Posts: 16
Default

I guess I was a little unclear in the question. The conduit runs from the wing root to the wingtip. The wingtip lights and perhaps the magnetometer wires will exit at the end of the conduit. My question is about the exit points along the way. Where the wires exit for the stall warning actuator, the A/P servo, the Pitot heat, and perhaps a leading edge mounted landing/taxi light. Do you just drill a hole in the conduit and pull the wires through. Do you put a grommet on that hole; do you just sand it smooth; do you wrap the wires at the exit point in tape or some other anti-chaff material; do you RTV the wires into the hole.
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