Rudder trailing edge

[Thunderpig]

Just finished countersinking the AEX piece and was working to mate it up to judge the depth of the holes. The slight bend the plans call for...how necessary is this particular step, given when it's cleco'd and pro-sealed it should be pretty flush already? Presuming it is necessary, best method would be what? The section that describe this isn't particularly clear, given "where" to bend and how much.

[BrianDC]

I used the edge forming tool from Cleaveland tool. Think it helps the edges sit flush when they are clecoed/ riveted together.

Honestly not sure what (if any) issues you will have if you skip it since it's such a minor bend anyway. Don't think it honestly will make a huge difference but the finish may not be "perfectly flush". Meh.
I have the tool so I have used it.

[rvanstory]

Look at page 5-13 of the tips section. Talks about this bend for "lap joints". Same procedure for rudder trailing edge. Last 1/4" from edge. Barely visible. I used the edge rolling tool and bent about 2-3 degrees (+/-). It's quite easy and makes great edge with no "puckering" between rivets.

[leok]

Make sure you use a very thin film of proseal.

My first time working with it and I expected some squeeze out. It's too thick, no squeeze out even with riveting and additional clamping pressure. Just made a thicker joint, and after riveting it was too late to go back and redo.

[Thunderpig]

Excellent tips...thanks, guys...

[jwilbur]

I didn't use any proseal at all.

[majuro15]

I didn't use proseal either, although did use the edge forming tool to put a slight bend in it. It really helps that joint come together smoothly and if it's not there, you run the risk of the trailing edge feathering a bit. Not show stopping, but cosmetically unpleasing.