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  #11  
Old 04-10-2007, 07:42 AM
Camillo Camillo is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Roma, Italy
Posts: 510
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No way taking these bolts off. They are so linked to the washer that there is no space to make grip.
I think that is the bolt threading to be stripped and the remaining threads make grip under the nutplate. Otherwise, if it was the nutplate's thread, bolts would came out easily.
I would like to avoid drilling them.
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RV4 IO-320, Catto 3-blade, Christen, I-BILT
Flight time: 1 hour
Status: test flights
www.rv4.it

ROME, Italy
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Flight time: 350 hours
Status: SOLD
http://nuke.rv9.it
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  #12  
Old 04-10-2007, 08:38 AM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 3,547
Default Hmmm

Sounds like the tank is coming off in any case.

So how about take the tank off and using a small rotary disc (like the ones van's sells for cutting the canopy) to cut through the threads about halfway up the nut plate.

So when you have cut through the bolt you will have about half the depth of the nutplate left.

This will avoid you getting too close to the spar and should release the bolt which should then unscrew.

Frank 7a
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2007, 02:12 AM
Camillo Camillo is offline
 
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Location: Roma, Italy
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Yes, it would be the best idea.
I shall resign to dismount the tank.
Thank-you again.
Camillo
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RV4 IO-320, Catto 3-blade, Christen, I-BILT
Flight time: 1 hour
Status: test flights
www.rv4.it

ROME, Italy
---
RV9A O-320 D1A, Hartzell C/S prop, slider, I-PRCA
Flight time: 350 hours
Status: SOLD
http://nuke.rv9.it
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  #14  
Old 04-16-2007, 01:58 AM
Camillo Camillo is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Roma, Italy
Posts: 510
Default Solved!

Hello.

I solved the problem. I took-off left fuel tank. I drilled out bolt heads. Then I unscrewed the four nuts which join tie down bar with main spar. I removed the tie down bar. I removed the two platenuts (with the remaining ?art of bolts inside) and reinstalled.

The best thing, as usual, is to sit down and think!

Thanks to all.
Camillo
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RV4 IO-320, Catto 3-blade, Christen, I-BILT
Flight time: 1 hour
Status: test flights
www.rv4.it

ROME, Italy
---
RV9A O-320 D1A, Hartzell C/S prop, slider, I-PRCA
Flight time: 350 hours
Status: SOLD
http://nuke.rv9.it
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  #15  
Old 04-16-2007, 06:13 PM
Captain Avgas Captain Avgas is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godspeed
Pull the tank and install new nutplates and get it over with as soon as
you can do it safe and clean, otherwise you will always wonder about the
threads.. its not worth it.. fix it and move on.. don't torq anything till
you get the torq list for each bolt size and application.. store the tail and wings and get going on the fuse.. if your not sure about the proper
inch pounds then ask on here , I have done this many times and these
guys are awesome helping with that stuff.. just my take on it..
I don't want to worry about these things everytime I am flying along
having a great time..
Danny..
Danny is right. Whip off the tanks and get on with the job of replacing the nutplates. If the threads on the bolts have failed you will have structural damage to the threads on the nutplates at the microscopic level as well. Replace them.

QB builders are reluctant to take the tanks off...but it is no big deal. In fact after you've done it you'll know more about your wing construction and you'll feel much better for it.
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  #16  
Old 04-17-2007, 10:39 AM
phil9diesel phil9diesel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Upper ny
Posts: 78
Default Nutplate ruined

I'd take a handful of spare nutplates, mount them on a scrap plate of aluminum and punish them exactly like you goofed this one. If they're ruined, you'll be sure you have to face the music and replace the problem nutplate.
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  #17  
Old 04-18-2007, 01:31 AM
Camillo Camillo is offline
 
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Location: Roma, Italy
Posts: 510
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Yes, maybe I was not enough clear.

I replaced the two "damaged" nutplates and installed new ones. Now my tie-down bar is OK.

The strange thing is that QB wings bolts and nuts torquing values were all wrong! For instance:
- aileron hinges bolts to tie down bar were @110 inch./lbs. (and when I tried to reassemble them at that torque value they broke);
- fuel tank bolts to main spar were all@50 inch./lbs..

They're all AN3 bolts. So correct torquing should be 20/25 inch./lbs. They were all overtorqued. So, now I don't know exactly if I did right re-torquing them @ 25 inch. pound...
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RV4 IO-320, Catto 3-blade, Christen, I-BILT
Flight time: 1 hour
Status: test flights
www.rv4.it

ROME, Italy
---
RV9A O-320 D1A, Hartzell C/S prop, slider, I-PRCA
Flight time: 350 hours
Status: SOLD
http://nuke.rv9.it
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  #18  
Old 04-18-2007, 04:16 AM
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captainron captainron is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camillo
Yes, maybe I was not enough clear.

I replaced the two "damaged" nutplates and installed new ones. Now my tie-down bar is OK.

The strange thing is that QB wings bolts and nuts torquing values were all wrong! For instance:
- aileron hinges bolts to tie down bar were @110 inch./lbs. (and when I tried to reassemble them at that torque value they broke);
- fuel tank bolts to main spar were all@50 inch./lbs..

They're all AN3 bolts. So correct torquing should be 20/25 inch./lbs. They were all overtorqued. So, now I don't know exactly if I did right re-torquing them @ 25 inch. pound...
Camillo, how do you know what the original torque settings were? By putting a torque wrench on them and reading the value while trying to loosen them? Or by trying to tighten them additionally, and reading the torque when the bolts started to turn again?
Torque has to be measured while the fastener is moving in relation to the part or nut it is being fastened to. To re-check torque, you must loosen the fastener, and then torque again to the correct value. You can't determine the original torque value by what it takes to break loose a fastener. Did you ever have trouble removing lug nuts while trying to change a tire on your car? You can bet that they weren't put on with as much torque as what was required to remove them.
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  #19  
Old 04-19-2007, 02:14 AM
Camillo Camillo is offline
 
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Location: Roma, Italy
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Yes, you caught my method!
I first tried with low setting, trying to tighten bolt. If I could hear torque wrench "click" prior to see or feel bolt moving, I upgraded torque setting. And so on, until I found the proper setting, which first made bolt move and immediately after hear the "click".
I thaught this was a correct method. Isn't it?
__________________
RV4 IO-320, Catto 3-blade, Christen, I-BILT
Flight time: 1 hour
Status: test flights
www.rv4.it

ROME, Italy
---
RV9A O-320 D1A, Hartzell C/S prop, slider, I-PRCA
Flight time: 350 hours
Status: SOLD
http://nuke.rv9.it
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  #20  
Old 04-19-2007, 04:00 AM
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captainron captainron is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 837
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No, it's not! You can only re-torque by loosening the fastener, then torque to value. Make sure that the bolt is still rotating when it reaches the required torque. In other words, this is done smoothly, but quickly. once the fastener stops rotating, the "break-loose" torque required to get it turning again can easily exceed the torque value you want.
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__________________________________________

"Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then".
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