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08-09-2017, 02:38 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Bowie MD
Posts: 886
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Bumping the thread
My James Cowl is on the Roadrunner truck in transit to me so I'm at this stage - deciding on 1/4 turn fasteners, SB vs Milspec.
Can anyone give some updated comments to those 5 yrs ago, like lessons learned etc?
Thanks
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Mani
Busby MustangII (FoldingWing) Pending DAR.
Don't be a hater; I'm a cousin with thin wings! 
N251Y (res)
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08-09-2017, 08:30 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Deux-Montagnes, Qc, Canada
Posts: 159
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I installed the Milspecs on my RV-9 three years ago and installed the Skybolts on my RV-10 few weeks ago. From an installation perspective, I prefer Milspecs. For cowls operation, I thing both will give good results over the long run.
Michel
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Exempted but dues paid through 12/2020
RV-9 Sold
RV-10 Flying
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08-09-2017, 08:43 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,456
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I had 2 different RVs guys rent hangar space from me both with hinged cowls. I would help them remove and install their cowls. It was always a 2 man job and a PITA.
I went to visit a friend who did his 6 with Skybolts and I watched him take the top off himself in about 30 sec. He reinstalled it solo in under a minute. He said they made it practical to remove the top for preflight inspection, rather than hopefully peering through the tiny oil door. He found it to be a safety enhancement. I was sold. But to each their own.
Even though it is not as clean as the hinge method, they still look very nice.
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Scott Black
Old school simple VFR RV 4, O-320, wood prop, MGL iEfis Lite
VAF dues 2020
Instagram @sblack2154
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08-09-2017, 10:19 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 2,251
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I used the SkyBolts and like them, but a few tips may be in order...
I used floating receptacles *except* for a few locations, like the upper and lower aft corners, to "lock in" the position of the cowling. In addition, I added a small bracket inside the lower cowling that mates to an angle with a nutplate attached to the flange/firewall to make it even more secure. If you don't, the whole cowling can shift (even with non-floating receptacles) some fraction of an inch. I added one screw on each side of the bottom of the bottom cowling, as well, for the same reason.
It was a bit more work, not much, and it's pretty quick to remove the screws when taking off the lower cowling, but it does tighten everything up.
The SBs make removal and reinstallation really quite straightforward and easy, and I think they look good (YMMV). Biggest pain is dealing with the nosegear leg while sliding the lower section down (or up) and getting things lined up to flip the baffling material over the ramps, but that'd be the same regardless of attach method with an A model.
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08-10-2017, 06:32 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Enon Valley
Posts: 189
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SkyBolts
I just replaced all but the side vertical hinges on my 6A. This is the biggest build project (except for a new GRT panel) I have ever done. Can't believe I didn't do this when I bought the plane 2 years ago when I first bought it.
Love em.
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Dewey Clawson
Super Sabre Society
2012 RV10; 1993 RV6A; 1947 Cessna 140, in progress
2019 dues exempt but paid anyhow
F100, A7D, A10, F16,
Fokker, Boeing, McDonnell-Douglas
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08-10-2017, 06:54 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,687
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I have hinges on my cowls, they are quick and easy to remove and install. I've taken off plenty of cowls with MS and SB fasteners and honestly I find my hinges are as quick or quicker than the MS/SB units, I also think they look better.
Trouble is most folks just don't take time and attention to install the hinges with the care required which will result in pins that are difficult to install.
__________________
Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)
EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
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08-10-2017, 08:09 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 194
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I agree with Walt on installing the hinges. They are a much cleaner installation. I have them on my RV9. The key with the hinges, I have found, is to wipe the pins clean and spray them with silicone EVERY time I remove them. It makes all the difference in the ease of installing and removing the pins.
The hinges on the bottom of the cowl started breaking the eyelets closest to the exhaust pipes at about 80 hours. I removed the hinges and installed the milspec 1/4 turns across the bottom of the cowl and have had no issues with about 500 hours now. I suspect this area of the bottom cowl is a high vibration area.
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Dan Burdette
Skyview, ADS-B, Garmin 420W, TT Gemini AP
RV-9A, IO-320, E-Mag
Guthrie-Edmond Rgnl, OK (KGOK)
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08-10-2017, 09:36 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt
I have hinges on my cowls, they are quick and easy to remove and install. I've taken off plenty of cowls with MS and SB fasteners and honestly I find my hinges are as quick or quicker than the MS/SB units, I also think they look better.
Trouble is most folks just don't take time and attention to install the hinges with the care required which will result in pins that are difficult to install.
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I installed sky bolts (7) and my 10 friend did a by-the-book hinges. He can either remove or install his cowl just as about as fast as I can with SB's. And they won't pucker.
So, apparently, there is no "wrong" choice - it's personal.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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