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07-12-2017, 07:10 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 130
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How to dimple nutplate holes on already installed firewall?
Hey all,
Technique question that I haven't been able to track down on the forums. I've laid out my firewall and drilled all primary holes for cable and wire passthroughs. I'm going to drill nutplate holes today, and I'm NOT looking forward to trying to dimple the nutplate holes in stainless steel using my pop rivet dimpler set with copper nails.
Any recommendations? For the holes near the top of the firewall I'm going to muscle the DRDT-2 up in the air and have a partner work the lever.
For the lower holes where I can't do this, I was thinking of using oops rivets and giving a tiny countersink to the steel with my deburring tool. This will PROBABLY work... but are there any "better" solutions out there?
Thanks all!
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07-12-2017, 07:26 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Floyds Knobs, IN
Posts: 174
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Cleaveland sells a set for your rivet gun that holds the dimple die. Drill a hole in your steel bucking bar (not the good tungsten one!  ) and you can now dimple anywhere a rivet gun will fit. It works well.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/401-Ri.../#.WWYi7ITyu9I
__________________
RV10
QB Wings done
Fuselage done
Systems and electrical...
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07-12-2017, 07:28 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 130
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Yes, amazing! I just placed a cleaveland order for some glare shield material 10 minutes ago. I'll send them a note and add this piece to the order.
Thank you!
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07-12-2017, 07:36 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Delta BC
Posts: 122
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Definatley a nice looking tool- I'll have to make or buy one myself. I've been using the same idea but with a hammer instead of a rivet gun. Just make sure both sides are held perfectly straight! I made a couple ugly dents but at least they are in a spot thay doesn't show.
Cheers
Alex
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Alex Doughty
Canadian ATPL
Flying!!
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07-12-2017, 07:59 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFeeney
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Just for reference, this is the same part that is in the bottom of the C-Frame. So many folks may already have one of these in the shop-
__________________
Chuck
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7a emp complete, wings underway
VAF Dues paid - 2018
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07-12-2017, 08:11 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,156
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Yep. Works great. We call it kamikaze dimpling for the reasons already mentioned. One of Tanya's least favorite things to do. No margin for error  .
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Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
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07-12-2017, 08:34 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 834
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Why
Why not use the pop rivet dimpler? You can get non copper nails. Works great I think.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sritchie
Hey all,
Technique question that I haven't been able to track down on the forums. I've laid out my firewall and drilled all primary holes for cable and wire passthroughs. I'm going to drill nutplate holes today, and I'm NOT looking forward to trying to dimple the nutplate holes in stainless steel using my pop rivet dimpler set with copper nails.
Any recommendations? For the holes near the top of the firewall I'm going to muscle the DRDT-2 up in the air and have a partner work the lever.
For the lower holes where I can't do this, I was thinking of using oops rivets and giving a tiny countersink to the steel with my deburring tool. This will PROBABLY work... but are there any "better" solutions out there?
Thanks all!
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Cold Lake, Alberta
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07-12-2017, 08:39 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Inver Grove Hgts, MN
Posts: 329
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Yes the firewall is stainless steel, but it is very malleable. You'll find that out if you push too hard when drilling a hole. Try the pop rivet dimple tool first, and use a steel finishing nail with it.
__________________
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM w/G3X, 1,600 hours +
South St. Paul, MN (KSGS)
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor
We're all here because we're not all there...
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07-12-2017, 08:39 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cczarnik
Just for reference, this is the same part that is in the bottom of the C-Frame. So many folks may already have one of these in the shop-
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Not in MY Avery C-Frame. I just have the set holder. However, a machinist friend of mine made up one of these from an old spare set in a few minutes for me. To use effectively, both 'gunner' and bucker should use more force than when riveting and the guy on the trigger should be quick to prevent the sets from bouncing away from the hole. I've also had good luck (and more control), using the Avery upper set holder with a set and a dead blow hammer.
By the way, the easiest mod for the bucking bar is to drill a hole to accept a regular set, which can be put in an unpolished face of any steel bucking bar you have (in case someone thought you needed to machine a female set into your bucking bar to match the male set; TFeeney's post may not have made that clear).
__________________
Patrick Kelley - Flagstaff, AZ
RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
http://www.mykitlog.com/flion/
EAA Technical Counselor #5357
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07-12-2017, 08:47 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvsxer
Yes the firewall is stainless steel, but it is very malleable. You'll find that out if you push too hard when drilling a hole. Try the pop rivet dimple tool first, and use a steel finishing nail with it.
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I did find that out when pushing too hard
Any tips on flattening out larger holes that have been bent inward slightly?
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