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  #1  
Old 06-29-2017, 01:34 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
Default Using Studs to Increase Heat Transfer in Heat Muff

I am thinking about strategies to increase my heat output for next winter. I have two heat muffs in series and the second helped, but it is still a bit lacking when the ambient's dip below 10-20* with cloud cover or at night.

I was thinking about welding a bunch of 1/2" or 3/4" long studs to the exhaust pipe under the muffs. In theory, all of the extra surface area should increase heat transfer. I am wondering if anyone has done this with success.

Larry
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  #2  
Old 06-29-2017, 01:57 PM
SteinAir SteinAir is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 2,473
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That has been done, as have things like coiled springs, brillow pads, and many others...with mixed to neutral results. As a fellow Frozen Tundra Flyer in Minnesnowta, I feel your pain. The reality is that below and in the single digits there just isn't that much that can be done beyond what you've already done with an RV6 that will provide a noticeable benefit (or at least anything other than an incremental improvement)...as soon as you pull the throttle at all you'll freeze anyway.

I'd almost suggest looking into heated seats (I know, a bit of heresy to even mention), but they are pretty easy to install in most seats and really work pretty darned well. Given that the firewall usually stays a decent temp, the seats help out the rest of it.

The other easy solution is to get an RV-10...you can almost fly in a T-shirt in those temps!

Just my 2 cents as usual.

Cheers,
Stein
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  #3  
Old 06-29-2017, 02:08 PM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,104
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I stuck a 1-1/2" SCAT duct up against the outlet side of my oil cooler and ran that air into the cabin. It works just fine in -10F OAT (the coldest I've flown in).
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  #4  
Old 06-29-2017, 02:19 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteinAir View Post
That has been done, as have things like coiled springs, brillow pads, and many others...with mixed to neutral results. As a fellow Frozen Tundra Flyer in Minnesnowta, I feel your pain. The reality is that below and in the single digits there just isn't that much that can be done beyond what you've already done with an RV6 that will provide a noticeable benefit (or at least anything other than an incremental improvement)...as soon as you pull the throttle at all you'll freeze anyway.

I'd almost suggest looking into heated seats (I know, a bit of heresy to even mention), but they are pretty easy to install in most seats and really work pretty darned well. Given that the firewall usually stays a decent temp, the seats help out the rest of it.

The other easy solution is to get an RV-10...you can almost fly in a T-shirt in those temps!

Just my 2 cents as usual.

Cheers,
Stein
Thanks for the reply. Yeah, decents are painfull and realize nothing can be done there. I have heated seats, but haven't used them much. I will leverage them more next winter. I can't really run them with low RPMs, as the alternator can't keep up. Using both puts another 10 amp load on the buss and my daytime steady state is 20 amps with the boost pump on; More at night.

I don't think the steel wool would help much. I only thought that the studs, being attached to the tubing would heat up. I am very much regretting not buying the muffler option from Vetterman.
Larry
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Last edited by lr172 : 06-29-2017 at 02:27 PM.
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  #5  
Old 06-29-2017, 03:55 PM
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greghughespdx greghughespdx is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Aurora, OR
Posts: 843
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Supposedly a Vetterman muffler system will generate more cabin heat capacity than standard heat muffs. Might be worth asking Clint?
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  #6  
Old 06-29-2017, 04:37 PM
vetterman vetterman is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 53
Default Studs on exhaust pipe

Years ago I sent a tail pipe to another exhaust fabricating friend and he welded studs on the pipe for me. I tested the outlet air temps both before and after and there was no difference. At the time neither he or I had any data to know what it would do. He and I were both quite surprised at the results, so I'm saying from that test it's probably not worth the cost and labor.
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  #7  
Old 06-29-2017, 05:38 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,596
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Put Stainless Steel pot scrubber pads inside the heatmuff. Huge increase in heat output.

Don't pack it in too tight.

Carl
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  #8  
Old 06-29-2017, 06:46 PM
sibriggs sibriggs is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Concord, NH
Posts: 215
Default make your own stainless coil

Wrap some safety wire around a pencil diameter size rod. Use the resulting coiled spring to wrap around the exhaust pipe under the heat muff. You don't want to use a regular spring because it will rust and break up, or a Bril?lo pad size wire as it will chafe and break up. Good old .040 safety wire.
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  #9  
Old 06-29-2017, 07:56 PM
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WyoDave WyoDave is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pinedale, WY
Posts: 118
Default Cockpit well sealed?

Is your cockpit well sealed? Canopy, Stick boot, etc...? I live in western Wyoming and regularly fly in ground temps around zero. At altitude often well below zero. When I first bought my 6 it was unbearable at even 15 above. Sealed the canopy and it is perfectly comfy. Even my wife, who does NOT tolerate cold, finds it perfectly comfy in seriously cold temps.
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  #10  
Old 06-29-2017, 08:01 PM
civengpe civengpe is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 212
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Not trying to be funny, but what about a heated seat like this? http://a.co/0g2naWs

Being from Houston, we usually fight the opposite problem.
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