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  #11  
Old 05-19-2017, 03:27 PM
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Mel Mel is online now
 
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Location: Dallas area
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Mine show no signs of corrosion after 24 years.
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2017, 05:51 PM
deek deek is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Flathead Lake Montana - 8S1
Posts: 334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post

You might try anodizing them.

Dave
Thin aluminum baffles would be the very last place I'd utilize anodizing. The anodized layer is aluminum oxide (ceramic) and is brittle - even when hydrated by the dyeing process. The fatigue strength of thin aluminum is significantly reduced by anodizing - thin baffles tend to crack in the best of circumstances; why ask for more problems? On thicker stock anodizing isn't much of a concern

Anodizing has been used to modify the surfaces of aluminium and its alloys for several decades. It is used because its significantly increases the corrosion and wear resistance. However, it can also significantly reduce the fatigue endurance of these alloys. This reduction in fatigue endurance is ascribed to the acceleration of crack initiation due to the brittleness and consequent crazing of anodized layers and the presence of defects in these layers. There is also evidence that anodizing also accelerates crack propagation.

Want more ? Good reading >>
Effect of Anodizing on the Fatigue Properties of
Aluminium Alloys
Bruce R. Crawford
Air Vehicles Division
Defense Science and Technology Organization
DSTO-TN-1180
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Last edited by deek : 05-19-2017 at 09:17 PM.
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  #13  
Old 05-19-2017, 08:06 PM
sjhurlbut sjhurlbut is offline
 
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There is no need to - just looks better painted. I recommend powder coat but bare is just fine.
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  #14  
Old 05-26-2017, 06:25 AM
donwmack donwmack is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Illinois
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To stop the part from swinging while painting I attach a wire to a low hole and hold onto it while painting.
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