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  #21  
Old 05-22-2017, 05:49 PM
JoeM's Avatar
JoeM JoeM is offline
 
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Default Speed Handle

Use a good quality speed handle with apex tip instead of power tools, it gives you a better feel and you can apply good pressure.
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  #22  
Old 05-22-2017, 06:11 PM
judoka5051 judoka5051 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: McAlpin, FL
Posts: 253
Default Threaded rod instead of a tap...

Hey All,

I've had pretty good luck with this. I noticed that the first time I put in and removed a screw was the hardest. Now I chuck a piece of threaded rod in a drill and run it in and out of new nut plates, just make sure you don't go too deep and dent something!

Lance
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  #23  
Old 05-22-2017, 07:27 PM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Location: Dayton, NV
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Default

I get really nervous when I see this many people say "run a tap through your nut plates!" Sure - there are a few low risk places where this might be OK. But airplanes are not cars, trucks, boats, or houses - fasteners in aircraft are designed to be hard to remove because the consequences of critical parts coming off are much worse than getting stuck by the side of the road. Cavalierly telling people to "run a tap through" defeats the locking purpose of the fastener, and while that might be OK on a storage compartment inside the cockpit, it is not such a good idea on a fuel tank attach plate.

The problem with blanket advice like this is that some places, its OK, other places, it is dangerous, and a rookie builder probably might not know the difference. But its the easiest way to go, so they listen to this large number of people on the internet, rather than the designer of their airplane, or the good words in the good book of acceptable techniques and practices (AC 43.13).

The bottom line is that if you use good tools, and you use BoeLube (beeswax is a good substitute if you check the ingredients) the first time you put a screw in a new nut plate (both recommended by experienced designers and the makers of most kits), you shouldn't have problems. Randomly removing the locking feature of aircraft fasteners is just a bit careless, and a shortcut to doing things right. And shortcuts often lead to bad places.

Paul
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  #24  
Old 05-22-2017, 07:35 PM
longline longline is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: silverdale, WA
Posts: 208
Default Nutplates

are a pain, but needed. I have seen all too many that were so tight that the screw broke. I have had zero issue since I started lubing with wax, canning wax from the grocery store. Comes in a box with something like 5 plates of wax. After the first screw installation things get a lot easier. I suspect that any wax, or Boelube, will work as well... this is as inexpensive as you can get.

In really difficult areas to access I have used a close tolerance tap to chase the threads, but proceed with great caution to not remove too much of the nut plate. If you run it through completely you have nothing left except a nut, no locking feature is left.
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  #25  
Old 05-23-2017, 12:07 AM
Evolution10 Evolution10 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: oregon
Posts: 94
Default

As for screwdrivers, try JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers. There is quite a difference in screwdrivers technology when you learn about them - all screwdrivers are not created equal! Look at this:

http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tool...-products.html

I used these for my -10's complete build and am still using the two I bought without problems.
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  #26  
Old 05-23-2017, 05:56 AM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
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Default Tefgel

An earlier poster had suggested Tefgel. I second that!
Tefgel is the go to product in the marine environment.
Mix stainless and aluminum or steel and add salt air and your in for a world of hurt trying to remove that fastener.

I built a Carbon Cub with a friend. We used Tefgel as most of the assembled parts are put together with stainless into aluminum. By the way the factory was very interested to learn of our method and asked about the Tefgel product.
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  #27  
Old 05-23-2017, 07:30 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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Default

BoeLube is $4, not sure why anybody would use anything else ..

I think running a tap is a terrible idea, they are suppose to be *really* tight.

By the way, screwdrivers aren't one size fits all .. in my humble experience stripping a head typically comes from not using the right size driver.
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Last edited by bkervaski : 05-23-2017 at 07:41 AM.
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  #28  
Old 05-24-2017, 09:52 PM
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RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
 
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Location: US
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There are two sets of tools where I spent a lot of money...cross-point screwdrivers and torque wrenches. Mine are from Snap-On, and the difference between the Snap-On screwdrivers and my Crapsman ones is like night and day...

For some reason, I have a Reed and Prince driver in my toolbox . Just because. Never used it ever, but someday... )
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  #29  
Old 05-25-2017, 01:48 PM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
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Get the BoeLube that looks like white wax, it will last for years for keeping drill bits sharp. As you use it, it will begin to break up into chunks and powder. Sprinkle some of this into your tray of screws. I prefer stirred, not shaken at that point
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  #30  
Old 06-16-2017, 09:27 AM
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cderk cderk is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Park Ridge, NJ
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arvey Fleur View Post
I always make sure I have ribs on my tip when screwing. I do not use lube, I just put them in there. No sweet-talk or anything like that, just go for it.
I spit my coffee out when reading this...
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