Is there a better tool?

[Mike S]

Beeswax is also very good to use when tapping aluminum.

[mturnerb]

Originally Posted by Bill Boyd

(besides tapping the plates very gingerly to loosen them some, which I no longer do): Wax toilet bowl ring for thread lube. One ring will do about 6.02x10^23 screws. Valve lapping compound on the tip of the Phillips bit - gives greatly improved grip and prevents cam-out. Quality Wiha screwdrivers. Pay the Germans and buy once-cry once.

EZ-Outs for when the above fails. If you don;t chase a tap through your #6's, I believe it's only a matter of time under the best of conditions...

A mole of screws??? What's the atomic weight of a screw?

[Bill Boyd]

This helpful hint first published in The Experimenter by Avogadro

He considered it to be the normal solution.

[Bill Boyd]

Originally Posted by mturnerb

A mole of screws??? What's the atomic weight of a screw?

That's none of your beeswax

[Arvey Fleur]

I always make sure I have ribs on my tip when screwing. I do not use lube, I just put them in there. No sweet-talk or anything like that, just go for it.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-46005-R.../dp/B0065ID2BU

The lil ribs on the tips hold the screw tightly. This also helps in tight quarters and unusual positions if the driver is a little out of alignment with the screw. As for the shaft, the threads do get roughed up by the nutplate, but I figure that is how it is supposed to be?

[Paul K]

If you think it's an issue of dirt, paint, or other FOD, I cut a slit length wise in the threades with a dremmel. The slot cleanes out any materials without cutting new threads or making the "hole sloppy" just use the screw as a chase and then replace it with a new fresh screw.

[BillL]

Originally Posted by Arvey Fleur

I always make sure I have ribs on my tip when screwing. I do not use lube, I just put them in there. No sweet-talk or anything like that, just go for it.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-46005-R.../dp/B0065ID2BU

The lil ribs on the tips hold the screw tightly. This also helps in tight quarters and unusual positions if the driver is a little out of alignment with the screw. As for the shaft, the threads do get roughed up by the nutplate, but I figure that is how it is supposed to be?

+1 But lube allows return performance, less trauma.

I seldom (almost never) have a driver slip now with the ribbed, replaceable tips.

[wirejock]

Boelube for sure but I actually run a tap in three turns. It leaves plenty of tension. Downside is the time involved. When I have a few extra minutes but don't want to start a new step, I tap nutplates.

[n567vb]

Originally Posted by Jasonm

I have started replacing all #8 phillips head screws with these.

https://www.microfasteners.com/fcmxs...stainless.html

Doing the same for #6 screws.

These strip even more than the phillips. Ask me how I know. I did both wing tips with these and i get a few stripping every time I remove the tips. I've been switching back to Phillips as these strip.

Vince
RV-7

[cdeerinck]

1) Torx might seem like they strip easy, but are you sure you are using the correct sized bit? Because they work for a while with the wrong bit, and then strip. Also, people often mix Torx and Allen tip heads all the time. Again, they mostly work but will strip eventually.

FYI, Phillips head screws are designed to strip. They were first created so machines could drive screws, and have the head strip before the threads did.


2) For sure tap the nut plates. I think they are using the same tap to make them, that they used 50 years ago, and it is getting small.

3) Boelube also helps a lot.