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  #1  
Old 04-07-2007, 03:36 PM
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rv969wf rv969wf is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Beaver, OK
Posts: 447
Default How Long will an RV last near the coast????

I've got a friend that might be moving to Rockport, TX with his RV-6 which was built in 1998 and has been in an area of dry climant. Rockport, TX airport is right on the coast with salt water all over the place.

Question is: Does anyone know the lifespan and what kind of corrosion problems he will have in the future. I don't know if his RVs aluminum was treated, alondined, zinc chromated, etc internally or not. The RV does have paint externally but that's about all I know.

Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks
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RV-6 IO360A1B6 C/S Hartz 200HP ?
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  #2  
Old 04-07-2007, 04:06 PM
CraigC CraigC is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mesa, AZ
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Default Corrosion

Any metal aircraft needs protection near saltwater. If he is currently in a dry climate and currently is not primed I would apply a corrosion inhibitor before moving near the coast. Boeshield or Corrosion X would work. As far as how long it will last is dependant on a lot of factors. Hangar or not, primed or corrosion inhibitor, and preventative maintenance performed during its life.
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Last edited by CraigC : 04-07-2007 at 04:09 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2007, 04:40 PM
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gvgoff99 gvgoff99 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 454
Default Texas coast.

I beleve that Craig has a good suggestion with the Corrosion X or Bioshield. I live in Houston and even though the interior is primed I sprayed Corrosion X through out everything prior to final assembly (plane was already painted). I wondered if I got enough in but now a year later it is still coming out everywhere. A bit of a mess but easier to deal with than the potential corrosion and is the easiest and least expensive thing that he can do and possibly the most effective. I keep the top of the plane clean and have done under the wing once and am getting ready to do it again this week. (No speed improvement or reduction with the C-X on the wing )
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  #4  
Old 04-07-2007, 05:11 PM
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rv969wf rv969wf is offline
 
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Location: Beaver, OK
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Default Question

How does one spray or apply the Corrosion X or Bioshield inside the wings and how do you know if it has absorbed between the ribs and skin. Be nice to have a swimming pool and dip the RV in it full of Corrosion X. $$$$$ Just kidding.
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RV-6 IO360A1B6 C/S Hartz 200HP ?
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  #5  
Old 04-07-2007, 05:16 PM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Default

I can't say how long an RV will last....but there are a lot of old Cessnas and Pipers tied down around here that were never primed inside that are still flying after 40 years....

As usual, YMMV. I have thought about doing the Corrosion X thing, but am not all that excited about having it seep out everywhere.
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  #6  
Old 04-07-2007, 05:32 PM
jartlip jartlip is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NC
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Default

I bought my RV4 last year and it wasn't primed. I applied ACF-50 and plan on doing it once a year. It does seep out of everywhere (which isn't a bad thing) and stinks, but eventually goes away after 10-20 hours.
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  #7  
Old 04-07-2007, 06:40 PM
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roadrunner20 roadrunner20 is offline
 
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Location: Bay Pines, FL (based @ KCLW)
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jartlip
I bought my RV4 last year and it wasn't primed. I applied ACF-50 and plan on doing it once a year. It does seep out of everywhere (which isn't a bad thing) and stinks, but eventually goes away after 10-20 hours.
I had a 30 year old Piper Cherokee that lived most of it's life here in FL.
Opening up the access panels showed absolutely no corrosion. It almost looked new inside the wing. There had been no treatments during it's life
I had corrosion X treatment applied, and the seeping began. I would not do it again.

On my RV7A, I only applied rattle can primer where 2 pieces where riveted together. I feel very comfortable with the decision.
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  #8  
Old 04-07-2007, 07:34 PM
RV8N RV8N is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sandpoint, Idaho
Posts: 487
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight
I can't say how long an RV will last....but there are a lot of old Cessnas and Pipers tied down around here that were never primed inside that are still flying after 40 years....

As usual, YMMV. I have thought about doing the Corrosion X thing, but am not all that excited about having it seep out everywhere.
I also know some old guys that have had cessnas hangered on Galveston Island for many years. No sign of corrosion.

Of course this is no guarantee that your plane will be fine. I personally primed every piece before assembly. Not sure I would do it again but I'm pretty confident that this RV will be around a long, long time.

Karl
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  #9  
Old 04-08-2007, 07:06 AM
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pierre smith pierre smith is offline
 
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Location: Louisville, Ga
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Default High pressure

Alan,
Most ag operators, me included use the Corrosion X treatment. It is applied a. Through the inspection plates or b. The wingtip removed or both. The system uses a high pressure dispenser and creates a "fog" inside the wings and the ribs and everything have a very, very thin film of the oily substance and this lasts for several years. The fuselage and tail-feathers can be accessed with the fin/stab fairing removed and the wand inserted and those areas fogged.

Lane Aviation in Rosenburg Tx. is an Air Tractor dealer and probably will either have the equipment or know of where you can get it done. Our ag airplanes are exposed to corrosive chemicals just about daily and all Air Tractor inner skins, ribs and stiffeners are all painted internally as well.

I did my own with 150 psi and a suction tube with dispenser bought at your local auto parts/aviation department.

Regards,
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RV-10, 510 TT
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  #10  
Old 04-08-2007, 03:43 PM
phil9diesel phil9diesel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Upper ny
Posts: 78
Default hinges and corrosion

Vans kits have powdercoated (process heat painted) .050 thickness 4130 iron hinges and bellcrank holders. I'd eurothane them every two years if I lived by the sea. The backplates and rivets used with them should get the same attention. Greasing, shining and rustproofing should be the same, except more often. Use polyurea or milspec grease, not silicone, soap based, or moly grease. If the instrument panel tilts or detaches, wrap the backs and fronts of the instruments in blankets, and electrical connections get Dow- Corning electrical grease. Keep your wheel rims, landing gear, engine mount, and steel control parts well painted.
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