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  #31  
Old 01-29-2017, 12:33 PM
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johnbright johnbright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Newport News, Va
Posts: 320
Default Grove, Berringer, or Modified Matco?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt View Post

3. Nose Wheel

Replace the Van?s-supplied Matco nose wheel with an improved Grove, Berringer, or Modified Matco (Anti-Splat Wheel and Bearing Modification) wheel.
I have Matco nose wheel in my RV-6A kit under construction.

How do I decide for an upgrade between Grove, Berringer or Anti-Splat Matco?

I see Anti-Splat uses ball bearings. Grove tubeless uses ball bearings while tubed uses tapered roller bearings. Berringer I don't know.
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  #32  
Old 01-29-2017, 02:27 PM
jdiehl jdiehl is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Williamsport, Pa
Posts: 175
Default Matco

Just to shed some light on this discussion, I have the vans matco nose wheel on my 7A and have not had any issues during the past 4 years that it's been flying. This 'original' equipment should serve you well if not abused.

Jim Diehl
7A
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  #33  
Old 01-29-2017, 06:03 PM
terrye terrye is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 859
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbright View Post
How do I decide for an upgrade between Grove, Berringer or Anti-Splat Matco?
Nothing wrong with the Matco wheel, nor taper roller bearings. My C-150 has taper roller bearings in all 3 wheels.

The cheapest "upgrade" is the Matco Axle Assembly
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLY...dv-3657-1.html

This allows you to preset the end play of the bearings independently of the bolt tension between the nose wheel fork arms.
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  #34  
Old 01-29-2017, 06:52 PM
gerrychuck gerrychuck is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Moose Jaw, SK, Canada
Posts: 550
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbright View Post
I have Matco nose wheel in my RV-6A kit under construction.

How do I decide for an upgrade between Grove, Berringer or Anti-Splat Matco?

I see Anti-Splat uses ball bearings. Grove tubeless uses ball bearings while tubed uses tapered roller bearings. Berringer I don't know.

The nice thing about the Anti-splat ball bearing mod is that you just tighten the axle nut and you're done, with no question as to whether you have it tightened correctly. The reduced rolling resistance hopefully reduces the odds of the nose gear tucking under. Definitely reduced maintenance.
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Moose Jaw Saskatchewan
RV6A "Second Wind" C-GERZ (born N242UL)
O-360 A1A, Sensenich FP prop

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  #35  
Old 01-29-2017, 11:31 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,343
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gerrychuck View Post
The nice thing about the Anti-splat ball bearing mod is that you just tighten the axle nut and you're done, with no question as to whether you have it tightened correctly. The reduced rolling resistance hopefully reduces the odds of the nose gear tucking under. Definitely reduced maintenance.
The Matco solid axle does exact the same thing and it cost only $50 and adjustable to for a fine tune settings. Once set, the axle bolt can be torqued with no effect on the wheel.
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N825SM RV7A - IO360M1B - SOLD
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  #36  
Old 01-30-2017, 04:53 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbright View Post
I see Anti-Splat uses ball bearings. Grove tubeless uses ball bearings while tubed uses tapered roller bearings. Berringer I don't know.
The Beringer is both ball bearing and tubeless.
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  #37  
Old 01-30-2017, 05:21 AM
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Jesse Jesse is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: X35 - Ocala, FL
Posts: 3,679
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bavafa View Post
The Matco solid axle does exact the same thing and it cost only $50 and adjustable to for a fine tune settings. Once set, the axle bolt can be torqued with no effect on the wheel.
The Matco axle does make it easier to put the axle bolt on without worrying about getting the exact right torque on it, but it does not decrease the rolling resistance of the tapered roller bearings with the rubber seal.
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  #38  
Old 01-30-2017, 11:01 AM
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mikehoover mikehoover is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt View Post
The Beringer is both ball bearing and tubeless.
Worth the extra upfront cost to get rid of the tube. I know of at least one builder who had to build and paint a new nose wheel pant because of a flat. That was his third flat due to nose wheel tube failure. He installed the Beringer. No problems since then. I went with the Beringer and have been happy with it. Saves a pound over Vans original set up.
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Columbia, SC
www.aclog.com/rv-9a/
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  #39  
Old 04-26-2017, 09:58 PM
Malndi Malndi is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 116
Default Fore and aft vibration of the nosegear leg

Another data point in this report relesed today.

http://www.atsb.gov.au/publications/...r/ao-2017-001/

Interestingly, video of the nose gear collapse was available to the investigators. As usual, several factors combined to cause this incident but I found this line from the report quite interesting "In all cases, the nose gear struts and forks made contact with the ground, initiating the damage sequence. The FEA concluded that the nose gear strut had sufficient strength to perform its intended function".
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  #40  
Old 05-17-2017, 04:01 PM
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swisseagle swisseagle is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: 20km outside of Zurich, Switzerland
Posts: 467
Default

Unsure if on this plane, the SB from Vans was done or not?
Interestingly that a RV-6A nosed over ... normaly the 7A was doing it, maybe also because of the much higher gear.
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RV-7A, TMX-IO-320, FM-150, Sensenich FP
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