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06-04-2015, 06:58 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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I can only conclude that all these rods are not consistent hardness. I used a not-so-cheap die and it would not get more than 1/4" and snapped, popped and was a significant torsional displacement. I tried several dies, and high sulfur cutting lubes, it was unsuccessful. It was clamped in the vice close to the jaws too. I have tapped and threaded many thousands of things and could not get this job done. An experienced friend had a similar experience.
We got the stainless all thread rod from Grainger. I might use the safety wire technique, but have the rod on hand now.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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06-04-2015, 07:13 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Greeley CO
Posts: 37
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I used SS welding rod and a quality die to thread the rod if you want to go with the rod. Just requires a lot of back and forth so as not to bend the rod and oil. And you need the dog legs to clear the drain-back tubes. 
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06-04-2015, 08:55 AM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Mill, South Carolina
Posts: 345
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Doh!
Never thought of using wire. I got the store-bought ones bent, but the holes in the baffles look like they're drilled too close to the bend, that I don't see how a nut, much less a washer can sit flat. Safety wire may be in my future.
Thanks for all the feedback.
Back to the cowling?
cowling?
cowling...
__________________
Bruce Windom
QB RV-8 N148BW
First Flight: Oct '16
AeroSport Power IO-360 180hp w/dual P-Mags
Catto 3-blade, with black carbon spinner.
10" Dynon SkyviewTouch. That's ALL.
2020 Dues contributed
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06-04-2015, 06:48 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Kingsville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 282
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Used a good quality split die. You can start it out a little more open then tighten it down. Still lots of back & forth to clear chips.
__________________
Dennis Enns
Kingsville, ON
Bellanca Champ 7ACA since 1986, restored 1990.
RV-8 IO375, Hartzell CS, dual PMags.
2020 Donation In
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02-25-2017, 08:59 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Culpeper, VA
Posts: 693
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Old thread, comment and new question
First, I may have stumbled onto a way to make cutting the threads onto the rods pretty easy. After having the same difficulties described here, I happened on one that was EASY. It just spun and cut the threads with almost no effort. After examining what I had done differently I realized I had started the threads as usual, got about 4 threads on and took a rest. When I put the die back on I accidentally put it on backwards with the narrow opening of the die first. I intentionally did the same thing on the remaining rods and all were trivially easy to cut. ... Hard to get started but once I had about 4 threads with the wide opening of the die first, I flipped the die and went to town. ... Maybe this might help someone else in the future.
Now for my question. Standard IO-540 D4A5 for the RV10. Followed the plans, interpreting best I could. The pictures below are of my left and right outboard tension rods. As I tighten the ends the rods bow upward in the center putting pressure on the oil return lines. Am I doing something wrong? These are the second set of rods I've made. Increasing the angle where they attach to get more clearance makes no difference. They just bow up in the center and contact the oil lines. In the pics I've backed off the pressure to the point where I can just move the sheathing. If I tighten to the point where the baffles are tight against the cylinder fins, there's enough pressure on these return lines to see them flex upward. This just doesn't seem right to me. But maybe it's OK??
Am I missing something here? Any advice?

__________________
-Joe Wilbur (N520LW)
Phase II - 11/2017
First flight - 8/2017
RV-10 Build Log
Last edited by jwilbur : 02-25-2017 at 09:03 PM.
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02-25-2017, 09:02 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 90
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23.0623.06
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02-25-2017, 11:37 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ogden or St George, Utah
Posts: 12
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I was able to buy SS all thread from my local RC airplane hobby shop. I slid it in plastic tubing prior to bending for oil return tube clearance. Worked great!
__________________
Brad Smith
Dues Paid Apr 2018
RV7A Tip Up, flying (the sports car) 
IO-360, dual PMag, WW 200RV, dual Dynon SV
PA28-235B (the truck)
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02-25-2017, 11:46 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Culpeper, VA
Posts: 693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrock
I was able to buy SS all thread from my local RC airplane hobby shop. I slid it in plastic tubing prior to bending for oil return tube clearance. Worked great!
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Doesn't the center of the rod bow upward against the oil lines as you tighten it? It seems for me to get it tight enough to make the baffle lay firmly against the fins the rod is putting a lot of upward pressure on those oil return lines. Am I making the rods too tight? Am I just overthinking it? ... I just don't like seeing the oil line flex as I tighten the tension rod. Seems like a bad thing.
__________________
-Joe Wilbur (N520LW)
Phase II - 11/2017
First flight - 8/2017
RV-10 Build Log
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02-26-2017, 10:46 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ogden or St George, Utah
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwilbur
Doesn't the center of the rod bow upward against the oil lines as you tighten it? It seems for me to get it tight enough to make the baffle lay firmly against the fins the rod is putting a lot of upward pressure on those oil return lines. Am I making the rods too tight? Am I just overthinking it? ... I just don't like seeing the oil line flex as I tighten the tension rod. Seems like a bad thing.
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Hi Joe,
I had to 'over bend' the jog so the rod just touches as it gets tight. I also used brake line tubing over the rod to protect the return tube from rubbing.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/woj5oxmkbl...F5573.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ka638gn8il...F5574.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rff4h3nuqt...F5575.JPG?dl=0
__________________
Brad Smith
Dues Paid Apr 2018
RV7A Tip Up, flying (the sports car) 
IO-360, dual PMag, WW 200RV, dual Dynon SV
PA28-235B (the truck)
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02-26-2017, 11:08 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ogden or St George, Utah
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwilbur
Doesn't the center of the rod bow upward against the oil lines as you tighten it? It seems for me to get it tight enough to make the baffle lay firmly against the fins the rod is putting a lot of upward pressure on those oil return lines. Am I making the rods too tight? Am I just overthinking it? ... I just don't like seeing the oil line flex as I tighten the tension rod. Seems like a bad thing.
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Joe,
After looking at your pictures closer, I think you need offsets/jogs closer to where the return lines are. Just bend a relatively short section near the lines to go down and then back up near the tubes.
__________________
Brad Smith
Dues Paid Apr 2018
RV7A Tip Up, flying (the sports car) 
IO-360, dual PMag, WW 200RV, dual Dynon SV
PA28-235B (the truck)
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