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02-22-2017, 02:24 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,188
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Remote Oil Cooler Ideas
I have an RV7 with a parallel valve O-360 and the stock Niagara 7 row cooler on the baffle behind #4. Currently my oil temps are decent 180-190 in cooler weather and 215 max on hot climb-out in the summer.
I'm thinking of remote mounting my cooler on the engine mount tubes on the left side, I didn't plan for this and my firewall is probably out due to other items already mounted.
-I'm thinking I should make more of a structural bracket that clamps to the engine mount with adell clamps to hold the oil cooler so the body of the cooler doesn't have any bending forces on it.
Searching the archives it seems like most people use a 3 inch hole and scat tubing for the smaller 7 row coolers and 4 inch for the larger coolers from the baffling. There needs to be a nice smooth transition from the scat tube to the cooler face.
-I'm thinking I could make my own inlet from the baffling in just about any shape (more options on where to pull the air from) as long as the opening has a bell-mouth directing the air in and then a nicely shaped duct to the cooler face? -I'm guessing I should also be shooting for about 7 inches of area, the same as a 3 inch circle?
I would also like to make an exit duct directing the air from the cooler to the cowling exit.
-Am I shooting for about 7 degrees of divergence on the exit duct?
-How large should the exit be?
__________________
RV 7 400 hours and counting
19 donation done
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02-22-2017, 03:49 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Howell,MI
Posts: 132
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Remote oil cooler
I believe your looking for something like Jason Beaver did with his oil cooler.
About half way down the page.
http://www.jasonbeaver.com/rv7/2012/10/
Gary
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02-22-2017, 03:57 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,147
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If you are going to remote mount it with SCAT tubing, you'll definitely want the 4" tubing. I ran 3" for mine (IO360, firewall mounted cooler) and it's barely adequate during winter and completely inadequate for summertime temps. I'll be changing mine very shortly to 4" to move more air.
__________________
Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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02-22-2017, 05:07 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Have you reviewed the Lycoming Operator's Manual?
Your temperatures seem right in line with what they should be. It is normal for your oil temperatures to rise during climb and 215*F is well below the maximum.
You want to be careful you don't get the oil so cool that any moisture in it won't boil off. Remember, the oil temperature probe is a good distance from the oil sump, which is often above 212*F. (That tidbit came from a Lycoming tech some years ago.)
Average
Ambient Air.............Desired......................Maxim um
Above 80*F..........180*F (82*C)..............245*F (118*C)
Above 60*F..........180*F (82*C)..............245*F (118*C)
30* to 90*F..........180*F (82*C)..............245*F (118*C)
0 to 70*F.............170*F (77*C)..............245*F (118*C)
Below 10*F..........160*F (71*C)...............245*F (118*C)
* - Engine oil temperatures should not be below 140*F (60*C) during continuous operation.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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02-22-2017, 05:44 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,188
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Gary, Thanks for the link.
Airguy, I believe the IO-360's needed the extra cooling capacity the 4 inch provided. I have a carbuerated parallel valve engine.
Bill, I realize my temps are in line with recommendations but this same cooler used to keep my oil temp at 178 after level off. New cylinders-plenum etc lowered CHT's but raised oil temp. I also would like to get the air pointed in the right direction as it leaves the cooler. My lofty goal would be similar to Dave's setup:
http://vansairforce.com/Community/sh...139328&page=10
__________________
RV 7 400 hours and counting
19 donation done
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02-22-2017, 06:26 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabandy
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Bill, I realize my temps are in line with recommendations but this same cooler used to keep my oil temp at 178 after level off. New cylinders-plenum etc lowered CHT's but raised oil temp. I also would like to get the air pointed in the right direction as it leaves the cooler. My lofty goal would be similar to Dave's setup:
http://vansairforce.com/Community/sh...139328&page=10
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Got it!
Why don't you first try making a fiberglass hood that goes on the back of the existing oil cooler and transitions to a 4" scat tube that you can direct to the exit?
This is something we made for a friend's -7A and it dropped his oil temps almost too much. It would be easy to make another shroud to direct the exit air out the hole.

__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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02-22-2017, 07:13 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR
Got it!
Why don't you first try making a fiberglass hood that goes on the back of the existing oil cooler and transitions to a 4" scat tube that you can direct to the exit?
This is something we made for a friend's -7A and it dropped his oil temps almost too much. It would be easy to make another shroud to direct the exit air out the hole.

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Making a duct for the rear of my existing setup would be pretty easy....but I really think some of the inefficiency in the stock setup is part of the oil cooler is blocked by the cylinder head. I'll have to look at this closer.
For your Friend's 7A what was the previous setup, as in same oil cooler just moved from the rear of the baffle to the firewall with a shroud and what size hole/scat tube? I/O or O and parallel or angle valve engine?
Thanks!
__________________
RV 7 400 hours and counting
19 donation done
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02-22-2017, 08:02 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabandy
Making a duct for the rear of my existing setup would be pretty easy....but I really think some of the inefficiency in the stock setup is part of the oil cooler is blocked by the cylinder head. I'll have to look at this closer.
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I understand but was wondering how much performance improvement it would give, if any. Then changing it to the setup you are envisioning, if it would gain anything over that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabandy
For your Friend's 7A what was the previous setup, as in same oil cooler just moved from the rear of the baffle to the firewall with a shroud and what size hole/scat tube? I/O or O and parallel or angle valve engine?
Thanks!
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He started with this Van's firewall mounted oil cooler kit.
The problem was that it used a 3" hose and the opening was right on the oil cooler. By changing it to the 4" hose with the transition piece we made, it allowed the entire cooler to cool the oil. Had we mad a transition piece for the 3" hose, he probably would have been fine because he ended up over cooling his oil with that setup, even on the hottest Carolina summer day.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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02-22-2017, 08:13 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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FYI- a 3" hose placed directly on the oil cooler only gives you 7" of cooling area but a 4" hose placed directly on the cool gives you 12.5" of cooling area.
By creating that fiberglass transition piece, you allow all the air coming from the back of cylinder #4 for pass through the oil cooler, not just 12.5" of cooling area.
Creating a transition from the 3" hole to the oil cooler will allow the air to slow down and as I said above, would probably prove more than adequate. More so, if you make a transition from the backside to the exit to help draw the air out.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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02-23-2017, 06:30 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR
You want to be careful you don't get the oil so cool that any moisture in it won't boil off. Remember, the oil temperature probe is a good distance from the oil sump, which is often above 212*F. (That tidbit came from a Lycoming tech some years ago.)
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There is no special juju in having oil reach 212F. Zip.
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...34&postcount=9
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
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