Best bucking bar?

[Bill Boyd]

I'm going to be tackling the last large-scale riveting on this project soon - the bottom wing skins. With a standard assortment of steel bucking bars already in hand, I want to treat myself to a tungsten bar for these remaining work sessions to close up the wings.

What style of tungsten bar would you fellows recommend for getting the bottom wing skins done? At these prices, I only want to buy ONE!

Appreciate suggestions.

[rleffler]

Originally Posted by Bill Boyd

I'm going to be tackling the last large-scale riveting on this project soon - the bottom wing skins. With a standard assortment of steel bucking bars already in hand, I want to treat myself to a tungsten bar for these remaining work sessions to close up the wings.

What style of tungsten bar would you fellows recommend for getting the bottom wing skins done? At these prices, I only want to buy ONE!

Appreciate suggestions.

I used this one: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungst.../#.WKyCze-7pUY

I used it on probably 98% of the rivets on my RV-10

Whomever is bucking the bottom skins, get them a tube sock with the toe cut out. This makes a great arm protector so they don't get nicks and scrapes from the lightening holes.

[PilotjohnS]

I used the same tungsten bar as above, but found it cheaper by searching the other VAF advertisers. I had to use a steel bar recently due to access, man I never want to go back to steel. I bet if you finally get a tungsten bar, after nearly completeing a build, you will probably want to build again. Just saying.

[Brantel]

Tungsten! The only way to go! You will thank us that recommend them! I have the one shaped and sized like the on Bob linked to above. I don't think the seller I bought it from is around anymore.

[ppilotmike]

I used the same one as Bob and John, on about 99% of all my rivets so far. I am soooooo glad I made the investment early on. It really makes bucking much easier than using the steel bars. I found that the steel tends to bounce more, which means you turn down the air more, which means you have to rivet for longer, which sometimes makes it more challenging to get a good shop head. Some may argue otherwise, but it takes a very special situation for me to put down my tungsten and pick up a steel bar. By the way, I have all the steel bars provided in the typical tool kit too, and you WILL need the special steel bar provided for use on the RV-10, when you do your elevators.

[larrynew]

I have 2 tungsten bucking bars. Used them about 50/50. First is like everyone mentions above. Second is 1x1x2. I found the 1x1x2 easier to grip and keep the bar flat to the rivet tail.

[xavierm]

The popular auction site has many weights and shapes at reasonable prices.

[Bill Boyd]

Originally Posted by rleffler

I used this one: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungst.../#.WKyCze-7pUY

I used it on probably 98% of the rivets on my RV-10

Whomever is bucking the bottom skins, get them a tube sock with the toe cut out. This makes a great arm protector so they don't get nicks and scrapes from the lightening holes.

Thanks, Bob and everyone else. The guy with his arm in the lightening holes will likely be me, as I think bucking is more critical than gun operation (with a mushroom set). I will use the arm protector, and I will be the one to blame if the bar is dropped and dents a top skin from the inside

There is a technique I've heard of using safety wire to fold back the skins for access while riveting, and gradually let them uncurl as the sheet is tacked down. Anyone have pics or details?

[Palamedes]

Originally Posted by rleffler

I used this one: http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungst.../#.WKyCze-7pUY

I used it on probably 98% of the rivets on my RV-10

This. I use this bucking bar on just about everything. The one with the foot is useful certainly, but this one is used much more.

[Larco]

And don't forget to protect the top skin with a thin pillow or something in case you drop the bar. :-)