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  #11  
Old 02-09-2017, 09:47 AM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is offline
 
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Ok thanks for that link. I was curious about TPI and width of the blade you are using. I think I currently too fine of teeth. I have a delta bandsaw so it's similar to the grizzly. $200 is a little pricey but that youtube video was impressive.
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  #12  
Old 02-09-2017, 10:05 AM
coffeeguy coffeeguy is offline
 
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Default tpi for material

I saw something somewhere (that sounds definitive, doesn't it) where you should always have 2 teeth in contact with the material at all times. Since I normally cut very thin stock I opted for 24 TPI. Yes, I should probably change the blade to 18 TPI or less for some of the larger material, but you know that goes.
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Last edited by coffeeguy : 02-09-2017 at 10:45 AM.
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  #13  
Old 02-09-2017, 10:20 AM
wilddog wilddog is offline
 
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Second the Starrett blades, you can order them any length and teeth you want.
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  #14  
Old 02-09-2017, 11:23 AM
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Russ McCutcheon Russ McCutcheon is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilddog View Post
Second the Starrett blades, you can order them any length and teeth you want.
Maybe something has changed in the years since I tried those, they cut great but by the second run had vast stretches of missing teeth and I paid a premium for them compared to the Lenox.
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  #15  
Old 02-09-2017, 12:50 PM
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N329JR N329JR is offline
 
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That is an interesting report Russ. I have had extremely good luck with Starrett blades for the last 6-8 years. I run a 144" long blade in my Do-All horizontal saw and they last for years while cutting significant volumes of mild, alloy steels and stainless steel. Flood coolant probably makes a significant difference as most bench-top bandsaws are dry cut. I do however run them dry in a Do-All vertical bandsaw as well with great success.
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  #16  
Old 02-09-2017, 01:06 PM
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Russ McCutcheon Russ McCutcheon is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N329JR View Post
That is an interesting report Russ. I have had extremely good luck with Starrett blades for the last 6-8 years. I run a 144" long blade in my Do-All horizontal saw and they last for years while cutting significant volumes of mild, alloy steels and stainless steel. Flood coolant probably makes a significant difference as most bench-top bandsaws are dry cut. I do however run them dry in a Do-All vertical bandsaw as well with great success.
I'm running a big horizontal with coolant, no stainless steel but piles of 4130.
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  #17  
Old 02-09-2017, 05:34 PM
MED MED is offline
 
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Thumbs up Lenox tools

Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ McCutcheon View Post
As you guys know or may not know, I cut stacks and stacks of 4130 steel tubing for the weldments that go into your airplanes, I have tried them all over the years, Lenox is the clear winner, these blades just keep hanging in and cutting, I get several years out of one of these blades, all the others start losing teeth after just a run or two.
Interesting you say you get good service from Lenox bandsaw blades - they also make the longest lasting step drills. I'm guessing they are the same company.
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  #18  
Old 02-09-2017, 05:49 PM
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Russ McCutcheon Russ McCutcheon is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MED View Post
Interesting you say you get good service from Lenox bandsaw blades - they also make the longest lasting step drills. I'm guessing they are the same company.
Yes, looks like the same outfit, they seem to make some good stuff.
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  #19  
Old 07-17-2017, 04:56 PM
Neal Trombley Neal Trombley is offline
 
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http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=3250236655001
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  #20  
Old 07-17-2017, 08:09 PM
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vernon smith vernon smith is offline
 
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Two teeth in the material is the way to go but impossible with thin sheet. Heat kills the blades hence coolant and cutting oil mix. This is not necessary with thin sheet, especially aluminum. As the video points out, the surface of the saw table is important, the thinner the material the more important it is. Good saws have inserts around the blade that align with the table to a thousandth or two, but are too expensive for occasional (hobbyist) use. The video is the way to go. You don't need to spend big bucks for Bi-metal blades to cut soft material, most any flex back blade is fine and 25% the cost of the Lenox Bi-metal blades.

As any quality sheet metal shop will tell you, a band saw is not the hot set up for cutting aluminum sheet today but hobbyist have little choice because water jets and the like are not yet available at reasonable prices. If you are cutting a lot of straight cuts take your quality material ( they will probably not have 2024 T3 or T6 on the shelf, and certainly not in .016 or .025) and have them shear it for you. Ask them to shear a test piece before you leave the rest of the job, if the cut has a slight curl just before the shear burr find another shop, their shear blade needs sharpened.

Last edited by vernon smith : 07-18-2017 at 06:03 AM. Reason: typos
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