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  #1  
Old 01-29-2017, 04:06 PM
Djgeib Djgeib is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Fernandina, Fl
Posts: 73
Default Bending trailing edge of rudder / elevators

I'm proud to say that I have completed my VS and should finish up the HS in a very short time. As such I have been researching making the bend of the trailing edge of the rudder. Searching the forums, I'm receiving conflicting information as to the size of the trailing edge. Some say use a 1/8 inch dowel, others say use a 1/4 inch dowel for a spacer. I been unable to find any definitive information in the plans. I will search again tonight.

Anyone have information on the proper diameter?
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RV8 empennage complete
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  #2  
Old 01-29-2017, 04:10 PM
SgtZim SgtZim is offline
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Crittenden, ky
Posts: 194
Default

1/8 sounds right.
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2017, 01:39 AM
xblueh2o xblueh2o is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SF East Bay
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Default

I used a 1/4" dowel but I did not use it how most people have used them.
I suspect my final bend radius is closer to the to 1/4" range.
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  #4  
Old 01-30-2017, 06:57 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
Default Bend

I used a 3/16" but what you may find is the final squeeze needs to be done with a smaller Dowell or none in order to get the two sides to bend enough to touch the forward spar.
I suggest buying one size each from smallest up to 1/4" and work your way down to none.
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Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
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Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2017, 12:08 PM
Djgeib Djgeib is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Fernandina, Fl
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Thanks for the advice. Think I'll do the step down procedure and see how it goes
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  #6  
Old 02-03-2017, 05:38 AM
dcurrier dcurrier is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Maricopa, AZ
Posts: 21
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Djgeib View Post
Thanks for the advice. Think I'll do the step down procedure and see how it goes
I am coincidentally at or just behind you progress-wise. I would be most appreciative if you could take and post pictures of your progress during the bend process. Bending the metal myself has been one of the more stressful parts of building so far.

Thanks,
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  #7  
Old 02-03-2017, 08:51 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
Default Bending

The key here is slow. You also need a super stiff brake. Van's plans use 2X6. Believe it or not but they can actually bow. Install as many heavy hinges as you can to keep the boards from bowing. Some builders use the edges of the boards instead for that reason. You want the edge squeezed so the skins lightly touch the ribs with no pillowing out or in between the ribs. A straight edge held fore and aft should lay flat from leading to trailing at any point across the surface. Get as close as you can and stop. Get a second pair of eyes on it. Resist the urge to go one more squeeze.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2017, 09:01 AM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,587
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
The key here is slow. You also need a super stiff brake. Van's plans use 2X6. Believe it or not but they can actually bow. Install as many heavy hinges as you can to keep the boards from bowing. Some builders use the edges of the boards instead for that reason. You want the edge squeezed so the skins lightly touch the ribs with no pillowing out or in between the ribs. A straight edge held fore and aft should lay flat from leading to trailing at any point across the surface. Get as close as you can and stop. Get a second pair of eyes on it. Resist the urge to go one more squeeze.
Made the brake from two 2x6 boards on edge, with three hinges. I also put the boards through the joiner to make sure the board edges are flat and true.

Carl
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  #9  
Old 02-04-2017, 11:56 AM
Djgeib Djgeib is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Fernandina, Fl
Posts: 73
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Built my bending brake today out of 2x8's. Pretty much followed Vans plan in section 5. Picked up dowels in 1/4, 3/16, and 1/8 size. Will work my way down and see how it does. Expect to bend on Monday if all goes well.

Go Falcons!!

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  #10  
Old 02-04-2017, 11:59 AM
Djgeib Djgeib is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Fernandina, Fl
Posts: 73
Default

Picture didn't come through on last post will try again. Thought I had it figured out.

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