Things you would have done differently?

[BobTurner]

Originally Posted by paul330

There are many rivets which are really difficult to set. Seriously consider using 1/8" cherries or 7/64" MK319s in these places - you will save a lot of heartache......

Many?? I'd say that for the most part, if the plans call for a solid rivet, it's possible to get one in. You may need to be creative with bucking bars.

[ppilotmike]

Originally Posted by mikeyj350

As a data point, I'm installing both rudder trim and a YD to perform their individual duties.

Mike,

Are you planning to install the spring bias rudder trim system?

[60av8tor]

Originally Posted by Cbull

The past 12 months have been rough on our family, my wife was battling colon cancer. A few surgeries and lots of chemo and we are done. (all healed up and clear now).

Very glad to hear that your wife is free and clear, Corey! Similarly, I had very little progress last year - wife lost cousin, mother, and grandmother in rapid succession; mother and cousin both to brain cancer. I looked forward to '16 as it marked my retirement from the military, but it was pretty much the worst year of my life.

Very good tips all, thanks.

You know I've been wondering about the YD vs rudder trim, and I guess I just don't know enough about how it works - i.e. what null point the system references. A call to Garmin is in order I guess. I installed a small metal tab on my 7 and will do the same if correction is needed on the 10. Or I may install Aerosport's system...

I have already begun the McMaster-Carr seal. I can already see that it will be some significant effort (some back and forth) getting a nice even fit, however I like the finished look.

Andair already installed. Good tip on the seat rail - never saw that one! Also good tip re reinforcing wheel pant attach area. I've riveted everything but the cabin top, upper fuse, and last tail cone skin. I don't recall using a rivet type other than called for by the plans. Shot most by myself; a friend assisted when solo was not possible.

[Auburntsts]

Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright

Perhaps I'm obtuse, but give me a little more on this. It doesn't register.

Kyle, it's a mod to allow you to remove the front seats without having to remove the flap torque tube covers in front of the rear seats. The problem is the rear of the seat tracks hits the cover before the front of the seat track clears the rails. Another approach is to mod the seat rail itself.

Personally I don't have that issue and did not mod my seats or the rails in any way. I just leave my carpet in and the seats hit the covers but a little tug up and back and bingo the seats come off--no damage to the seat, carpet or covers. YMMV.....

[Guy Prevost]

Originally Posted by Auburntsts

Kyle, it's a mod to allow you to remove the front seats without having to remove the flap torque tube covers in front of the rear seats. The problem is the rear of the seat tracks hits the cover before the front of the seat track clears the rails. Another approach is to mod the seat rail itself.

Personally I don't have that issue and did not mod my seats or the rails in any way. I just leave my carpet in and the seats hit the covers but a little tug up and back and bingo the seats come off--no damage to the seat, carpet or covers. YMMV.....

Me too. I can get my front seats out with no modifications. I just have to pick up on the back a little as I get close to the covers.

[Bill Boyd]

Originally Posted by BobTurner

Many?? I'd say that for the most part, if the plans call for a solid rivet, it's possible to get one in. You may need to be creative with bucking bars.

Do you own one of every length and style of bucking bar ever made? If so, you're good to go. If not, at least consider saving untold effort and using a pulled rivet if it's not primary structure. Like a floor pan corner. There may be a way for some of these tucked-away rivets to be driven, but I can't find it with available tooling.

[dspender]

Sound proofing on the interior firewall before installing the brakes and instrument panel.
An inch or two more slack in my wire runs.
No insulation between the floor panels and the bottom skin.
Insulate the aft surface of the aft baggage wall.
Built a 10 sooner in life than I did!

[aturner]

Originally Posted by dspender

Built a 10 sooner in life than I did!

This is a modification I wholeheartedly agree with. Otherwise, I like it the way it is. Simple, sweet, and speedy.

[N427EF]

Things you would have done differently?

Not much at all !

For those interested in a biased spring, rudder system see post #18.
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...er+trim&page=2

Rudder trim is nice to have but less complicated solutions like a wedge on the rudder will do nicely.

[leok]

To put the addition of rudder trim in perspective, I have 10 hours in the modifications of the rudder and about another 7 in the wire up.
The wire up was more complicated than it needed to be because I wanted the trim on my stick grip and the two switches were SPST with a common ground shared with other switches so I needed a separate DPDT relay.

Cost was for the Ray Allen kit at about $300 (1" travel) http://www.rayallencompany.com/produ...imsystems.html. I spent about another $10 for the solid state relay at Digikey

Details are at this link http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...=224584&row=28

In the greater scheme of things 20 hours and $310 seems like a small price to pay for the functionality. It all comes down to personal goals, keep it simple and fly soon or take the extra time to add stuff.
For me, I am adding things that I have found useful in my flying to date, and addressing the things that bug me in the aircraft I fly now (bad lighting, crappy interior, slow, slow, etc.).
I will say, backlighting all of my switches (very cool and worth it to me) and then adding color control on a whim (over the top, but cool none the less) , has added a lot of wiring time and some complexity. I would do it again though