found oil on the floor, grounded

[TroyBranch]

I have always put a hole at the elbow going into the case. I don't care if there is no chance of it freezing, maybe it could clog by some other magic reason. A small hole is good redundancy and piece of mind for me and a requirement in Canada as already mentioned. It sure doesn't hurt anything by doing it.

[Pmerems]

Originally Posted by noelf

I, and several others that run the Superior engines, have had front seal failures. We have all found that the front seal was installed with white silicone sealant. I am not sure what you mean by "the same color as lead" but white flakes is what we all had. New seals and plio bond adhesive were the answer.

.
My front seal on my Superior IO360 leaked after a 100 hrs or so. Pulled the old out and it was "bonded" with the white silicone sealant as well. Didn't take much force to unseat it. Installed a new seal with pliobond. No issues in the last 200 hrs.

[scsmith]

I'm really glad to see Scott and BillL and a few others speak up with reason and data to combat what is a periodically surfacing piece of mythology.

One poster said, "what can it hurt?" and I think the answer is that it will spray a small amount of blow-by around inside the cowl where I don't want it. Which is, after all, why the breather hose dumps it out at the cowl cooling exit -- to get rid of it.

[robertahegy]

Putting the seal in boiling water will make it more pliable and stretch over the prop hub more easily. I had a front seal on my Cherokee (0-320) blow out in cold weather. On approach to landing the vent probably froze up and the seal puked out when I throttled up to taxi. We put a "blow cock: in the vent tube to help prevent that. I would get rid of the hose near the exhaust and put a metal tube near the exhaust to keep the vent tube warmer.

Roberta

[rv8bldr]

Originally Posted by robertahegy

Putting the seal in boiling water will make it more pliable and stretch over the prop hub more easily. ...stuff deleted...

Roberta

Another trick that I used putting my front seal in was to put a plastic grocery bag over the prop flange. The combination of a warm, pliable seal and the slippery surface of the plastic made the installation of the seal dead simple.

[BillL]

Originally Posted by rv8bldr

Another trick that I used putting my front seal in was to put a plastic grocery bag over the prop flange. The combination of a warm, pliable seal and the slippery surface of the plastic made the installation of the seal dead simple.

And less chance of damaging the seal from surface finish on the flange. I'll remember this idea for the future. Thanks for tip.

[Jerry Fischer]

Originally Posted by andyrv

My front seal started leaking in my Superior XP engine at about 300 hours. I replaced it and no more leaks so far at 1100 hours.

Lycoming sells a seal tool to help install the one-piece seals but they are $1150 to $1200. I bought the Aircraft Tool Supply version (5209) for $80 and it worked very well. Took much longer to get the seal seating area completely clean (working in tight space behind the flange) than actually replacing the seal itself.

Andy

acetone is recommended for cleaning

[gbitzer]

Steve, are you using the Antisplat crankcase check valve installed on the breather hose?

[DanH]

Originally Posted by gbitzer

Steve, are you using the Antisplat crankcase check valve installed on the breather hose?

Steve doesn't appear to be using a crankcase evacuator from Anti-Splat...but if you do use any kind of evacuator connected to the exhaust, install a safety check valve. It eliminates the possibility of pushing out the front seal if the exhaust tap cokes shut.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...&postcount=227

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

I am not aware of a single incident with any RV where a frozen vent tube was suspected as a cause, if the installation was done per the plans with the tube up inside the cowl. This keeps the entire tube in an area too warm for ice to form.

Originally Posted by crabandy

I can try to grab some addition temps in sub-freezing wx but I'm certain the lower cowl temps anywhere inside the loser cowling will still be above 100*F.

Lowest cowl exit temperature measurement I've ever heard was 120F.

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

If by recommended you mean by Lycoming, I am pretty sure that the number 1 product recommended by them is a Pliobond adhesive.

Certainly recommended by the best engine builder I know.

[Boyd Birchler]

Some where, I think on this web site a guy made an install tool with a few pieces of PVC pipe. Lot less than $80.

I have changed many in the past using a plastic bag,3 Phillips screw drivers, lubed down the bag with gear oil, warmed the seal with a hair dryer. Just make sure to clean the seal off and the inside bore where the seal goes with something like acetone, MEK, or even AvGas before gluing the new seal in.

Oh yes: do not forget to assemble the spring and put it into it's groove before gluing the new seal in place.