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01-08-2017, 01:33 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 69
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7A Nose Gear Leg Attachment Bolt Direction Question
Hello. On my RV7-A (I am not the builder), the AN5-20A nose gear leg attachment bolt is installed from the top (the nut is on the bottom) of the engine mount. This is backwards to what Vans dwg 46A shows. Because of this (I think), the bolt is too close the firewall and interferes with the plug that is used to plug the hole in the firewall when the bolt installed per the drawing. I am thinking if I remove the bolt and install it the way the dwg shows - I will be able to install the plug and not have a hole in my firewall. Is my thinking correct? What torque setting do I use on the bolt, will it come out easily, (guessing I need to jack up the nose before pulling the bolt), and any other hints/ideas much appreciated. Thank you so much for your help!!!
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Tim
RV-7A N54LH O360 CS 1000+ Hobbs
Joined VAF 2015
2019 VAF dues Paid
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01-08-2017, 01:50 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: X35 - Ocala, FL
Posts: 3,679
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You could leave it for now and use something else to plug the hole. The main reason the bolt is installed from the bottom, as I understand it, is to allow you to torque the nut with a torque wrench, which you can't get on the nut as installed in your plane. Ideally, bolts should be installed from the top down whenever possible so a nut falling off won't cause the bolt to fall out of the hole.
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Jesse Saint
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01-08-2017, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse
You could leave it for now and use something else to plug the hole. The main reason the bolt is installed from the bottom, as I understand it, is to allow you to torque the nut with a torque wrench, which you can't get on the nut as installed in your plane. Ideally, bolts should be installed from the top down whenever possible so a nut falling off won't cause the bolt to fall out of the hole.
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The main reason(s) is that it puts the bolt in an orientation that allows for driving it out if the gear leg needs to be removed, and there often isn't enough space for a standard nut and washer.
The standard for bolt orientation is "unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer". In this case we could substitute designer for manufacturer.
A bolt torque chart is in Section 5 of the construction manual. If you don't have a manual, you should get one if you are going to be maintaining the airplane yourself. A copy of the manual is available on CD for $10 from Van's
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
Last edited by rvbuilder2002 : 01-08-2017 at 02:05 PM.
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01-08-2017, 04:51 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
Posts: 2,189
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I wanted to install the bolt from top down and looked for options to do so but ended up installing it per plans, which includes a hole in the firewall to drive it out when the time comes.
I made a simple cover from stainless steel to cover the hole. One round plate on the front side with a stainless steel screw through to another round plate on the inside. High temp sealant between the two.
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Ray
RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior, James cowl, plenum & intake, Anti-Splat -14 seat mod and nose gear support
All lines by TSFlightLines (aka Hoser)
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01-08-2017, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymo
I wanted to install the bolt from top down and looked for options to do so but ended up installing it per plans, which includes a hole in the firewall to drive it out when the time comes.
I made a simple cover from stainless steel to cover the hole. One round plate on the front side with a stainless steel screw through to another round plate on the inside. High temp sealant between the two.
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This is how I have done it.
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Mehrdad
N825SM RV7A - IO360M1B - SOLD
N825MS RV14A - IO390 - Flying
Dues paid
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01-08-2017, 06:58 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,821
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On my 6A, I just replaced the bolt with the next size longer. Added a washer under the head to allow the full shank of the bolt to be in full contact with the hole drilled in the mount.
Removing the bolt was no problem.... Vise grips and a small hammer. Installing the bolt was no problem... just place the washers and nut as the bolt starts to extend out the hole. The firewall can be flexed in this area to allow clearance from the end of the bolt.
Torquing was easy from the top. Add the bolt drag to the torque spec. No hole in the firewall.
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VAF #897 Warren Moretti
2019 =VAF= Dues PAID
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01-09-2017, 09:37 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 626
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This is what I ended up with. The standard bolt was a bit loose, so I used a close tolerance bolt. I had to cut an elongated hole in the firewall because I had previously located the first hole about 3/8" too low. I riveted the cover plate to cover the hole. I like the idea of a plate, sealant and screws FWF with plate nuts [spell check won't leave me alone with plate nuts as one word] mounted to the aft side of the firewall. I think you could maintenance that bolt from the fore side without having to get under the panel.

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01-09-2017, 10:10 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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Just a heads up, don't use a 5/16 drill or reamer for that 5/16 bolt hole.....like some one I know did, it will be too loose, and you will need to remove the mount and install the taper pin ordeal.......ok it was me. 
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7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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01-09-2017, 01:16 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasman
On my 6A, I just replaced the bolt with the next size longer. Added a washer under the head to allow the full shank of the bolt to be in full contact with the hole drilled in the mount.
Removing the bolt was no problem.... Vise grips and a small hammer. Installing the bolt was no problem... just place the washers and nut as the bolt starts to extend out the hole. The firewall can be flexed in this area to allow clearance from the end of the bolt.
Torquing was easy from the top. Add the bolt drag to the torque spec. No hole in the firewall.
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I don't understand how adding a washer under the bolt head allows for full contact of the bolt shank with the hole drilled in the mount.... ???
Anyway, glad your bolt came out easy when you needed it too. They often times don't. In those cases people are usually happy the bolt is installed head down.
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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01-09-2017, 02:52 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse
Ideally, bolts should be installed from the top down whenever possible so a nut falling off won't cause the bolt to fall out of the hole.
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A good general rule. One place I deviated was the bolts attaching the rudder cable clevises to the rudder horn, so it's easier to inspect the condition/security of the cotter pins on the pre-flight.
__________________
Doug
RV-9A "slider"
Flew to Osh in 2017, 2018 & 2019! 
Tail number N427DK
Donation made for 2020
You haven't seen a tree until you've seen its shadow from the sky -- Amelia Earhart
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