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  #1  
Old 12-31-2016, 02:42 PM
rvdave rvdave is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
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Default Elevator symmetry

I clamped my elevator counterbalance area level at front of elevators/stabilizer then drilled elevator horns but after installing washers and tightening the nut and bolt my right elevator counterbalance sticks up about 1/8 of an inch. I must have drilled at a slight angle for the slight offset. Trying to think about how to correct this and I am contemplating welding one hole closed and re-drilling. Would this be the best way to go about it?
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  #2  
Old 12-31-2016, 02:50 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvdave View Post
.... I am contemplating welding one hole closed and re-drilling. Would this be the best way to go about it?
You wouldn't be the first.
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  #3  
Old 12-31-2016, 03:29 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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That is a good option.

Another that is acceptable is to elongate the hole with a 3/16" round file until you have the position you want and then weld the perimeter of a washer positioned over the new hole location.
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  #4  
Old 12-31-2016, 07:52 PM
Stoo Stoo is offline
 
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I fixed this problem by slightly enlarging the hole, getting it round and concentric with the other horn, then sleeving the enlarged hole with a shouldered washer turned up on a lathe.
Stewart Willoughby, 6 panel.
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  #5  
Old 01-01-2017, 12:44 AM
rvdave rvdave is offline
 
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Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Another that is acceptable is to elongate the hole with a 3/16" round file until you have the position you want and then weld the perimeter of a washer positioned over the new hole location.
I think I like that idea even better, is a 960-10 washer the one to use?
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  #6  
Old 01-01-2017, 02:05 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvdave View Post
I think I like that idea even better, is a 960-10 washer the one to use?
Yes, that will work fine.
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  #7  
Old 01-01-2017, 06:19 AM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
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How is the alignment of the trailing edges of the elevators? Before you go any further run a straight edge (or even eyeball) the trailing edges, then check the counterbalance arm alignment with the H stab while the elevators are aligned and in trail.
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  #8  
Old 01-01-2017, 06:37 AM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
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Location: houston, texas
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Default Camber- Caster settings

We simply took some tubing and cut it beveled. then installed it with a longer bolt. It is much the same as using the Camber-Caster shimming on a cars front end adjustment. You make a couple of them, put one on the inside and one on the outside, Put the bolt through, bring the bolt up to just loose and then turn the bevel to get the alinement you wish. Kind of adjustable if you will. Hope this helps. Yours as always. R.E.A. III #80888
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  #9  
Old 01-01-2017, 07:14 AM
Larry Parham Larry Parham is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Prescott AZ
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Default elevator symmetry

My elevator counterbalance are both equal around 3/8 to 1/2 in flight. Not being the builder how does this affect the airspeed/ drag?
Should I re-drill the elevator horn and repair?
Thanks for any input
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  #10  
Old 01-01-2017, 07:36 AM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Parham View Post
My elevator counterbalance are both equal around 3/8 to 1/2 in flight. Not being the builder how does this affect the airspeed/ drag?
Should I re-drill the elevator horn and repair?
Thanks for any input
Yours is not a matter of elevator horn alignment. It has to do with the flight loading and angle of the horizontal stabilizer. You can see the difference in the in-flight position of the elevators by loading to different CG's. A more pronounced AFT CG will have the elevators Counter balance horns riding in an UP position (meaning above the leading edge of the stabilizer). The airplane will also be aerodynamically lighter and somewhat faster. The converse is true for an aircraft with a forward CG--the horns will ride below the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer, and the aircraft will be slower.

So, first I would check to see that your horizontal stab is set correctly as per the plans. If not, you can correct it with shims to raise it (knowing it will also affect the fit of your tail fairing).

I believe the total drag component will be the same, but Scott may want to weigh in here.

Vic
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