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  #1  
Old 09-23-2015, 10:59 PM
DMFenster DMFenster is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Posts: 90
Default Titan Throttle body inlet to RV-8 Snorkel

Have a Titan IOX-360. In reading the Manual that came with it - on page 14 there is an adapter that Titan sells that will adapt the snorkel to the throttle body. It is a flex hose. Anybody using this set-up - and how's it working out?

Also, none of the paperwork that came with the engine tells me things like plugs, oil filter, service intervals, etc. Is everyone just using the lycoming service intervals and the plug/filter manufactures recommendations.

Thanks

Dave
RV-8
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2015, 07:17 AM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: houston, texas
Posts: 900
Default No.

No, but a short cut is to just fab. one. 3/16" flat plat and a peace of tail pipe, Tig or welded together and your there. We also used the blue hi-Temp silicone hose from a ford V-8 diesel and their band clamps as well. Works very well. You will want to make a small bracket to hold the snorkel outlet end to the bottom of the crank-case as well. That will keep vibration cracking of the fiberglass snorkel down. Hope this helps, Yours, R.E.A. III #80888
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  #3  
Old 12-10-2016, 10:26 AM
clam clam is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Lakeland, TN
Posts: 197
Default

I am a little hung up at what I hope is the final junction in the air intake system, with the following components:

-Titan IOX-360 with horizontal cold air sump with 7 degree face
-Silverhawk fuel servo
-Van's RV-8 snorkel to left baffle ramp air filter

Specific area up for debate is the connection from the snorkel to the adapter. I have some ideas, none of which I think are ideal, so I'm soliciting inputs. The wooden template is temporary to locate servo centerline.

The obvious solution to bolt snorkel direct to servo is a no-go because the 7 degree face of the sump puts the snorkel way up into the alternator and leans it aft behind the filter area. I have already performed surgery once at the top to get the filter mounted, and I will rejoin the section after this end is solved. You can just see where the snorkel top has been cut off in the top right of last photo.

My search efforts landed most closely at this thread.
Thanks for any suggestions.





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  #4  
Old 12-10-2016, 01:19 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Location: 08A
Posts: 9,500
Default

Sometimes you get to earn the title "airplane builder".

Seriously, there is nothing sacred about that piece of fiberglass. If the factory snorkel doesn't fit your system, throw it away and build one that fits. It's no harder than building any other duct.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=44856







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  #5  
Old 12-10-2016, 04:41 PM
clam clam is offline
 
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Location: Lakeland, TN
Posts: 197
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thanks dan. i have read this, and many of your other works, with great interest. just thought i'd see if someone has a "magic widget" connector before i begin yet another deviation project on my project.
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  #6  
Old 12-10-2016, 06:13 PM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
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Location: houston, texas
Posts: 900
Default Dan is the Man

Dan is correct, you can cut and shape the fiberglass as you need to. We have an ECI throttle body it has the round face to the front that you just slide the hose over. What we did was fab an item much like the one you have in your hand in these pictures. It has a little thicker flange plate. We bolted it to the flange of the fiberglass and used a little RTV to seal it. I can just make out the down angle of your flange and understand your concern. I would be tempted to make a second flange to bolt to the fiberglass and put a peace of hose and a clamp on both sides. A nice gap between the lips maybe 3/8-1/2" and the hose would flex to take up the 7* offset. Just a thought, but Dan is right, some West systems epoxy and a little S cloth will do it also.
Hope this helps, Yours, R.E.A. III #80888
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  #7  
Old 12-15-2016, 06:33 AM
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rv8ch rv8ch is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 3,201
Default Dan makes it look so easy!

Dan makes it look so easy!

I'm staring at my air intake system now - I have the airflow performance FM-200 with a round connector, and wow - not quite as easy as Dan makes it look!

Starting to cut foam, glue it together, and shape it. Following Dan's detailed instructions to the letter, so in a couple of months I'll let you know how it works out.

After an hour of sanding, I'm ready to plunk down the $1400 that Rod Bower wants for his system. Nah, I need to learn this stuff.

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  #8  
Old 12-15-2016, 12:42 PM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
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Location: Mount Vernon, IN
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Default

Blake has these intake adapters, commonly used on the Rocket's forward facing Bendix servo.

http://cdn3.volusion.com/glckw.nxstp...jpg?1384102083

http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/Fue...ter-p/2103.htm
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  #9  
Old 12-15-2016, 06:18 PM
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gyoung gyoung is offline
 
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Location: Spring, TX
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You don't have to build the whole thing. When I fitted to my first RV it had the AFP servo with the round inlet. I whacked off the end of the snorkel with the Bendix flange and used foam, clay and mold release to fashion an end with a press fit to the servo.

I reused it on the rebuild but a different sump changed the servo position. Chopped it in half and with a few creative cuts and filler rejoined it to work again. Nothing is forever with fiberglass.
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2016, 09:23 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ks
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rv8ch View Post
Dan makes it look so easy!

I'm staring at my air intake system now - I have the airflow performance FM-200 with a round connector, and wow - not quite as easy as Dan makes it look!

Starting to cut foam, glue it together, and shape it. Following Dan's detailed instructions to the letter, so in a couple of months I'll let you know how it works out.

After an hour of sanding, I'm ready to plunk down the $1400 that Rod Bower wants for his system. Nah, I need to learn this stuff.

That's the spirit, it's just fiberglass!
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