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  #11  
Old 07-05-2005, 05:43 PM
Mark Burns's Avatar
Mark Burns Mark Burns is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ruston, Louisiana
Posts: 879
Default The DRDT-2 is great

I got the plans for the frame from Paul Merems at http://www.experimentalaero.com/DRDT-2.htm

I built the frame and then purchased the "front end".
It was a lot of work, but I'm glad I did it.
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Mark Burns
Ruston, Louisiana
RV-7A N781CM 1,650+ hrs
FFI FL-24
A&P
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  #12  
Old 07-05-2005, 10:47 PM
mike crowe mike crowe is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: McDonough GA
Posts: 18
Default DRDT2 Dimpler

I work for Alexander Technical Center at Griffin GA on there tail kit program.
I brought a DRDT1 and started using it there Jan of 2004. We have built over 70 tail kits with it. It has made a big improvement in the quality of the dimples. It takes a noisy two man operation down to a quiet one man operation. The dimples are consistent and less chance of adding extra holes. I am building a RV8A myself. I try to dimple everything I can with it. I and another instructor each just brought a DRDT2 to use away from the center. Get one you will not regret it.

Mike Crowe
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  #13  
Old 07-05-2005, 11:01 PM
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txaviator txaviator is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Arlington, TX (DFW)
Posts: 1,164
Default

I am on the old C-frame model and was wondering....aren't there some areas which make it a little tough to pull the handle down on the DRDT2? For instance, when I was dimpling the most forward holes on my elevators, it got kind of tight even with the C-frame. I was wondering how the handle on the other unit kept from being in the way? I suppose just some creative movement of the skin itself, on an as-needed basis?
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  #14  
Old 07-05-2005, 11:48 PM
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RudiGreyling RudiGreyling is offline
 
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Location: South Africa, Johannesburg
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Thumbs up

txaviator: Go look at their web page, you could invert the skin and then the handle is free to be pulled down:
http://www.experimentalaero.com/DRDT-2.htm

I also only bought the front end head, while I was in the USA on business trip and brought it back in my luggage. No way I was going to pay for international shipping of the heavy C frame

One tip though, make sure you use the same gauge/thickness steel or thicker as per their plans if you want to construct the frame. If you do not the C frame beding moment will not be strong enough and not dimple good. Ask me I know We tried to cut a corner and used thinner steel which we had in the shop on our first frame. The initial dimples was not good until we redone the frame following plans suggested thickness.

I will not trade mine, and everyone that uses mine says they want one as well.

My recommendation...Buy the head, manufacture the frame, you'll have a tool almost the same price as a traditional C-Frame that is much more advanced and easier to work with.

Kind Regards
Rudi
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"Science, freedom, beauty, adventure...what more could you ask of life? Aviation offers it all" - Charles A. Lindbergh

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  #15  
Old 07-06-2005, 11:56 AM
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RV7Factory RV7Factory is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Livermore, CA
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Default Love it!

I love my DRDT-2, and Paul M. (of Experimental Aero) is a class act! I can dimple any time of the day without the racket of the hammer thing. It also makes dimpling a one man operation... one to hold the skin, the other to move the lever.

Close up pictures of a few dimples can be seen here...
http://www.rv7factory.com/log/050701.html

EDIT: I re-read the original post, and in regards to the "crispness" of the dimples... I previously heard a comment from someone who said the crispness of the dimples created by the DRDT-2 is less than those made from the typical c-frame. Looking at some of my work done with a c-frame, I *might* be persuaded to say that yes they are *slightly* less crisp, but only to the degree that can be noticed if you are performing a specific comparison. From 1-2 foot away, I can't tell at all, and I would imagine that any differences in crispness would be well covered with primer/paint. I will gladly trade a tiny bit of crispness for consistency and ease-of-use any day.
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Livermore, CA | RV-7 | SOLD
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Last edited by RV7Factory : 07-06-2005 at 01:30 PM.
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  #16  
Old 07-06-2005, 02:59 PM
John Courte John Courte is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 634
Default

Tell me if you think this is nuts or if it's been covered before, but what's to stop me from modding the DRDT-2 (or just fabbing a similar box frame) to have an attach point above the piston in the size and shape of a 2-hole CP-214 type yoke, then use the pneumatic squeezer to drive the dimpler piston? I already have the pneumatic squeezer, and I'm just wondering if there's a way to broaden its usefulness, since it was such an expensive tool.

I'm not a machinist or a welder, or know much about metallurgy, but I'm guessing that strength and rigidity is pretty important here, since it's the frame that's soaking up the load instead of just the piston being impacted.

thanks,
-John
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  #17  
Old 07-06-2005, 04:59 PM
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RV7Factory RV7Factory is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Courte
I'm not a machinist or a welder, or know much about metallurgy, but I'm guessing that strength and rigidity is pretty important here, since it's the frame that's soaking up the load instead of just the piston being impacted.
Kinda like this...


IMHO, you would probobly spend a lot of time and money perfecting the design... much more so than the $325 and month it takes to get a DRDT-2.

PS - The device above is ONLY $1905 from US Tool.

Regards,
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Livermore, CA | RV-7 | SOLD
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Last edited by RV7Factory : 07-06-2005 at 05:39 PM.
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  #18  
Old 07-06-2005, 05:34 PM
John Courte John Courte is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 634
Default

[/quote]IMHO, you would probobly spend a lot of time and money perfecting the design... much more so than the $325 and month it takes to get a DRDT-2.

PS - The device above is ONLY $1905 from US Tool.

Regards,[/quote]

Well, that explains that..

So now the trick is to find that big C-yoke for sale on ebay.

I still think I could do it cheaper than 2 grand, but probably more than $325.
But like somebody else mentioned, I'd rather spend the time building the airplane than building new tools...
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  #19  
Old 07-07-2005, 06:07 AM
tsneidin tsneidin is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 118
Default improved dimpler.

Hi,

First time poster - long time listener. I just started an rv-9a. I am a computer professional and as a result suffer from carpal tunnel syndrome. I ordered a set of tools (mostly from yardstore.com) and was playing with the dimpler on some scrap and felt that their had to be a better way - a way that would be easier on my wrists. I had a spare air cylinder and foot pedal so I thought I'd try to improve the dimpler. The pictures below show my first and only try. Works like a charm - so well that I didn't use a single hammer blow on my entire empennage. You can see in the second picture that the unit is lose on the overarm, so that I could move it out of the way if I needed to use a hammer. The pedal obviously would be positioned on the floor during use. I position the skin with both hands and once positioned I press the foot pedal two times. Goes very fast and not a single opps. I can't tell a difference between the ones I did with the hammer and the ones I did with the air cyclinder.




Todd Neidinger
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  #20  
Old 07-07-2005, 09:09 AM
Scott_F Scott_F is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Patuxent River, MD
Posts: 70
Default

Todd,
I really like this idea. What is the bore, stroke & push pressure of your cylinder? Is that just a hefty wood block you have it mounted to? What's a good source for buying the cylinder and pedal?

Thanks,
Scott
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