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  #11  
Old 11-27-2016, 04:26 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,428
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If you can weld, weld one up from thick scrap.

Dave
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  #12  
Old 12-12-2016, 09:38 AM
bill v bill v is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: zeeland michigan
Posts: 127
Default try and find a post by cytoxin or captain john

I did a terrible job on my rv-4 and really searched the old posts and one of these guys had a post with pictures and the bar to use and after following this post the ailerons were easy the post have to be about 8 years old by now. the jest of the post was to build a jig so the aileron was vertical and then be able to put one arm under the aileron with the bar and go through the hole with foam holding the skins apart the bar was a small tungsten bar that fit in the web of the spar but I used one that was longer then the spar web but with an angle that matched the web had a piece of leather under the bar to raise it and not mark the spar
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built rv-4 started 1987 finished 1996 now building rv-7, fitting cowl
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  #13  
Old 12-13-2016, 03:18 AM
Richard Connell Richard Connell is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 220
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Sorry to hear your frustration.
Another solution that worked for me was to tape a #40 drill bit along the long(fat) edge of the tungsten bucking bar. This brings the long(narrow) face to the same angle as the flange. Then just slide it along the web.
Cheers
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RV7 VH-XRC Sold :-(
RV10 in progress.
Sydney, AUS
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