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  #1  
Old 02-26-2016, 09:41 PM
scorwin scorwin is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South DFW, Texas
Posts: 62
Default Extra hole in step



How can I fix this? I've ordered the step inserts already but the guide hole is just next to the bolt hole. Use a rivet to fill it in? I have no experience welding. Can't take the mount out and replace it bc the skins are riveted in place.

Any ideas?

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/o...pstqhot7ao.jpg

Last edited by scorwin : 02-27-2016 at 12:04 AM. Reason: Trying to add picture!
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  #2  
Old 02-26-2016, 11:41 PM
bwestfall bwestfall is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
Posts: 163
Default access hole

If it were me I would leave it as is and re-drill so the bolt goes through horizontally. Purchase a pair of those access plates van's sells for the wing leading edge to access the stall warning horn and install them in the fuse floor for future step access. In the photo I hadn't re-drilled the hole horizontally yet. Notice how badly I missed center on the vertical bottom hole as well.



Several have made a "step bushings" to go inside the step tube that can be used as both a drill guide and something for the step bolt to clamp on when tightening. They would be pretty easy to make or TCW sells them http://www.tcwtech.com/RV-10-construction-project.htm
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Last edited by bwestfall : 02-26-2016 at 11:44 PM. Reason: brevity
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  #3  
Old 02-27-2016, 10:38 AM
scorwin scorwin is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South DFW, Texas
Posts: 62
Default

This is what I found from Section 19. Gonna order it today
That looks good. Going horizontal is a good idea also. I ordered the bushings from TCW also.


ACCESS HATCH DOUBLER (x 2)
VA-195C $4.20 $8.40
ACCESS HATCH COVER (x 2)
VA-195D $2.90 $5.80
6-32
K1100-06 (x 20) $0.64 $12.80
C/Sunk,non-struct
AN507-6R6 (x 20) $0.06 $1.20



Since I'm ordering things anyways....

What size conduit does everyone order? From Vans, it looks like there's only one size (5/8). If not from Vans, where do you get it from?

Last edited by scorwin : 02-27-2016 at 11:03 AM.
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  #4  
Old 02-27-2016, 04:59 PM
bwestfall bwestfall is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
Posts: 163
Default conduit

5/8's is the only stuff I'm aware that Van's sells. I think it works pretty good. I'm sure there are conduit pipes you can get at home depot that would work.

The important thing though is run at least 4 conduit pipes (2 on each side).

Be real precise when placing the access hatch doubler hole in the floor because it's easy to place it such that the closeout panel on the side wall will cover the edge and make getting the screws in or out impossible. You do want to get it as far over as you can as that just barely give you access to the step weldment.

Drill the horizontal holes prior to putting in the floorboards. I drilled the horizontal holes after riveting down the baggage floor (because I hadn't decided to do the mod at that point). I had to use a right angle air drill and it was a bit tricky but not too bad.
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RV-10 (phase 1 flight testing)
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Last edited by bwestfall : 02-27-2016 at 05:05 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-11-2016, 10:04 AM
scorwin scorwin is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South DFW, Texas
Posts: 62
Default Revisit this thread

I had to take some time off to move. Getting a shop built! But in the meantime, its time to get back at it in my garage.

I'm still stuck with the above dilemma. What does the rest of the VAF say about the access plates? Worth it or not really?

Just use the bushings (I have them)?

Other ideas or options

Shawn
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  #6  
Old 11-12-2016, 09:45 AM
Evolution10 Evolution10 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: oregon
Posts: 94
Default

Never can have enough access plates! Put them in for sure.
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  #7  
Old 11-12-2016, 10:09 AM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 913
Default

I used the bushing and torqued the bolt down. I didn't bother with access panels since they're not able to be positioned in a way to remove the bolt. My hope is that the step never becomes loose. If it does I will retro install an access panel to get to the nuts... if I have to replace the bolt then will have to drill from the bottom up and close it off with something.
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  #8  
Old 11-12-2016, 10:20 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,218
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AviatorJ View Post
I used the bushing and torqued the bolt down. I didn't bother with access panels since they're not able to be positioned in a way to remove the bolt. My hope is that the step never becomes loose. If it does I will retro install an access panel to get to the nuts... if I have to replace the bolt then will have to drill from the bottom up and close it off with something.
You don't need access panels to install/remove vertically positioned bolts. Just 5/8" holes, which can be drilled in the baggage floor and through the belly skin, and filled with snap-in plugs.
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2001 RV-6 N46KB
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  #9  
Old 11-12-2016, 10:47 AM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,189
Default Yep!

That is what I did. Before I riveted the floor, I ran a long drill bit throughout the step holes and through the bottom skin. Then I clecoed the floor and ran the same bit up through the bottom skin hole, through the step holes and throughout the floor. Now I have the exact location of the bolt and nut. Both floor and skin holes will be closed with a snap in plug.
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Aerospace Engineer '88

RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
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  #10  
Old 11-12-2016, 11:34 AM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oklahoma City
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright View Post
You don't need access panels to install/remove vertically positioned bolts. Just 5/8" holes, which can be drilled in the baggage floor and through the belly skin, and filled with snap-in plugs.
Yah I would do something like that... but how do you get to the top of the bolt without an access panel?
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RV-10, N10JW
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http://operationrv10.blogspot.com/
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