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10-30-2016, 06:05 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
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The water problem with a buried air line is likely just because the ground is typically cooler than the air. You could do the coil of air line in a chilled bucket trick, in the shed, or plumb a small (1/4" or so) additional line from the low point of the buried line to a quick drain in the garage. If it's plumbed to the bottom of a T at the low point, pressure will clear any condensation.
BTW, those oil-less compressors are louder, but if there are budget or space constraints (need to move it between work sessions, etc) it shouldn't stop anyone from using one. I did probably 95%+ of the air tool work on my -7 using one that sat just outside my work room. I doubt I could have tolerated it in the same work space, but just outside the door worked out fine for me. As others have said, the big limits are grinders, etc, & spray guns. But I don't recall any real limitations when using the rivet gun, air drill, etc. These days, most grinding/rotary cutting duties can be handled by cheap Harbor Freight electric tools, or Dremel style tools for small stuff.
FWIW,
Charlie
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10-30-2016, 06:27 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 38
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The PVC doesn't have to run the air directly, just use a larger diameter as a conduit and fish the actual air line through it underground. The PVC would just keep the air line protected and out of sight.
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10-30-2016, 06:34 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central MA
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rookie1255
The PVC doesn't have to run the air directly, just use a larger diameter as a conduit and fish the actual air line through it underground. The PVC would just keep the air line protected and out of sight.
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Something like this is what I had in mind.
__________________
Mike Lemovitz
RV-??
VAF Dues Paid October 2016
Blog and Build Log: PilotFuse.Com
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10-30-2016, 10:28 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 232
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Use 3/4 pex
I have almost 100 ft of 3/4 pex running from my upper garage to lower shop at the opposite end of the house. It's cheap and has held great for over 5 years now. I put a water trap mid span and a filter/regulator setup at the shop side.
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10-31-2016, 05:37 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sarasota Fl
Posts: 168
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Underground lines, in my experience, has caused a lot of condensation. Make sure the pie runs downhill and put a t on the low end with a pipe going down to catch the water and then run it up to a valve which will allow you to drain it.
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10-31-2016, 05:49 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Just Minutes from KBVI!
Posts: 1,039
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As others have pointed out, a buried line will allow condensation when the soil temperature is below the dew point of the compressed air. This will be especially noticeable in the summer.
This is not necessarily a bad thing. You could build a moisture trap in a small pit just before the air line comes back up out of the ground. Slope the line toward the trap and put a drain fitting at the trap bottom. Then run a flex hose up out of the ground to a blowdown valve (preferably a solenoid valve on a timer) to purge the trap periodically.
This will actually help get you drier air at your tools.
Also as Scott said, NEVER use PVC for air. Other polymer pipes can be fine but PVC and CPVC will shatter into small shrapnel if the line bursts.
Most of my air line is black iron pipe but I used some plastic (polyethylene) tubing and press-to-fit connectors for some of the branch runs. The PE tubing is actaully a great solution and if I had to do it over again I would probably use it or PEX instead of the black iron.
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10-31-2016, 09:14 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fredericksburg, TX
Posts: 662
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Scoot,
I've run schedule 40 pvc for shop air since 1984; no problems.
__________________
Jim Averett
RV-8
TS36 - Silver Wings
Fredericksburg, TX
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10-31-2016, 09:16 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 963
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Thinking about those cold winters, a 20 foot pipe run underground and resulting condensation to deal with, you might consider just insulating the ceiling and wall really well in the garage to help keep down the noise. Get as quiet of a compressor as you can. Maybe stick it in the basement or tuck it into a corner of the garage.
It might take some space but it would eliminate a lot of the other hassles you'd have. Plus you won't have to worry about snow removal to get to the shed, just to turn it on or lying on the cold floor in an unheated shed to reach underneath the compressor to drain the tank.
Of course as I get older, I'm less tolerant of cold and winter...
Bob
__________________
Bob Hassel
NM
Subscription Paid for 2020
Home is where the hanger is...
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10-31-2016, 09:38 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: St Lucie County, FL
Posts: 353
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I have a belt driven compressor in the aircraft factory aka garage. Not too bad. If I could put it outside I would though. I fear outside even under a mini compressor shed, it would deteriorate quicker. I've had this compressor for about ten years now. It never runs with the pneumatic squeezer, runs often with the air drill, and the grinder...yeah...constant.
If I had a shed nearby, I would put in there for sure.
__________________
Regards
Luis  --------------------------- RV-10---------------------------  Empennage. Complete Minus fiberglass and attach section. FOR SALE
Build Log N925LC (Reserved) YouTube
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10-31-2016, 11:44 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,967
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+1
Quote:
Originally Posted by scard
Flagman, you didn't just say that! Remind me to thump you on the head next time we fly together.
PVC with air is simply a bomb waiting to go off. In this instance, the only thing good is the depth of the trench. Below the frost line of course, (whatever that is).
Friends don't let friends run PVC for air.
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Definitely DO NOT use PVC line for compressed air; especially when exposed to cyclical temperature changes.
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