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  #11  
Old 10-29-2016, 09:09 AM
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TajMahal TajMahal is offline
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Tenino, WA
Posts: 17
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I used Belite bendable capacitance probes in the next outboard bay, mounted from the rear tank baffle on a blank cover plate. Location and set up is just like the float senders would be (per mod on 16A), just using cap probes bent into a ? shape instead of the floats. Floats are cheaper and do the job, was just a personal preference for me.

Chris
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  #12  
Old 10-30-2016, 04:35 AM
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High_Flyer High_Flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saint-Jorioz, France.
Posts: 199
Default Removing flop tubes

Gents,
Thank you so much for all your advices.
I will be removing the flop tubes and install the standard fuel pickup with float fuel senders on the access panel.
Ordering the parts from Vans soon and will do the job when I receive everything.

Last question: what is the best solution to plug and seal the holes where the flop tubes pickup are coming out of the tanks?
Would a couple of simple AN caps on the AN fittings with sealant be enough (after removing the flop tubes of course) ?

Alain.
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  #13  
Old 10-30-2016, 07:04 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
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When I removed my flop tube several years ago, I simply capped the bulkhead fitting with a standard AN-6 cap.
https://www.anplumbing.com/adapters/caps-plugs.html
No sealant is needed for AN fluid fitting joints. (Obviously, you still need to seal the pass-through point of a bulkhead fitting, but nothing is needed where the fittings mate to each other.)

As long as the bulkhead fitting isn't leaking where it passes through the end rib, just cap it. I capped mine on the outside of the tank. Don't forget to stabilize the bulkhead fitting with another wrench when you remove the flop tube, and when you cap it. You don't want to risk twisting the bulkhead fitting in the rib, which could break the proseal seal and/or loosen the nut on the fitting.

Charlie
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