|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

10-14-2016, 06:21 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Salmon Arm, BC
Posts: 933
|
|
__________________
Mark Olson
1987 RV-4 Sold
2003 Super Decathlon - Sold
F1 EVO Rocket, first flight May 31/14
First in line for the Sonex JSX-2T kit
|

10-14-2016, 09:02 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 774
|
|
Sort of. I was looking for a single solid state relay just for the battery contactor, as that is running continuously whereas the starter is only used once per flight. My aim was to reduce my continuous current draw without having to take out a mortgage. As much as I'd love one of those Vertical Power units, it's a little outside what I can justify right now.
Tom.
|

10-15-2016, 05:30 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Cambridge, Tas. Australia
Posts: 54
|
|
Blue Sea
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgmillso
My aim was to reduce my continuous current draw...
|
These only draw 130 mA...
__________________
Adrian Port
RV-10 emp done, wings 90%, fuse 90%, cabin top DONE!
www.tasrv10.com
|

10-15-2016, 03:57 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 774
|
|
Nice solution Adrian. That is 1/7th of what the standard ones draw, so definitely a possible proposition. Last night I realized there was an alternate solution, and that was the use of Nuckolls' "E-bus". From what I gather, I could even have the E-bus just on a switch rather than a relay (because the current draw would be so low), reducing its parasitic draw to zero, and just shut down the battery contactor, given that I'll already have the engine started at this stage. The E-bus will still get power, since it is on the battery side of the contactor, and I just have the essential devices such as my GAD27 trim controller connected to this bus. Then again, your solution is far more simple, and negates this secondary wiring route. I'll send you my schematic before I pull the trigger on it.
I wonder how these guys are able to make their current draw so low, as it doesn't seem to be solid state. Perhaps they reduced the spring tension, which would bring into question it's ability to handle G loads. Things for me to look into I guess.
Tom.
|

12-04-2016, 02:57 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
|
|
I spent a lot of time looking at the best option to get rid of the parasite draw (alternative, electrically dependent engine). I wound up with a 'standard' master contactor and two alternators. But my critical engine bus is on a high current switch direct (through a fusable link) from the battery. Also have a switchable redundant path from the airframe bus.
The easiest way around parasite draw, especially if the battery is up front on the floor like a 4/6, is to use a manual battery disconnect. Blue Sea makes them, but so do many other vendors. Some are set up to use a push-pull cable for control, and most can be configured to use a shaft on a universal joint if needed. On a 4/6, just mount it near the battery within reach of the pilot. There are some older certified a/c that use a similar setup (disconnect on/near the panel), even with the battery mounted under or behind the seats. Not ideal in a crash, but the FAA did bless the idea.
Charlie
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:37 PM.
|