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  #11  
Old 10-14-2016, 06:21 PM
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SMO SMO is offline
 
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Location: Salmon Arm, BC
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Isn't this what you are looking for?

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=125206
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  #12  
Old 10-14-2016, 09:02 PM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 774
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Sort of. I was looking for a single solid state relay just for the battery contactor, as that is running continuously whereas the starter is only used once per flight. My aim was to reduce my continuous current draw without having to take out a mortgage. As much as I'd love one of those Vertical Power units, it's a little outside what I can justify right now.
Tom.
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  #13  
Old 10-15-2016, 05:30 AM
Tassie Tassie is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Cambridge, Tas. Australia
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Default Blue Sea

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgmillso View Post
My aim was to reduce my continuous current draw...
These only draw 130 mA...
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  #14  
Old 10-15-2016, 03:57 PM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
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Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
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Nice solution Adrian. That is 1/7th of what the standard ones draw, so definitely a possible proposition. Last night I realized there was an alternate solution, and that was the use of Nuckolls' "E-bus". From what I gather, I could even have the E-bus just on a switch rather than a relay (because the current draw would be so low), reducing its parasitic draw to zero, and just shut down the battery contactor, given that I'll already have the engine started at this stage. The E-bus will still get power, since it is on the battery side of the contactor, and I just have the essential devices such as my GAD27 trim controller connected to this bus. Then again, your solution is far more simple, and negates this secondary wiring route. I'll send you my schematic before I pull the trigger on it.
I wonder how these guys are able to make their current draw so low, as it doesn't seem to be solid state. Perhaps they reduced the spring tension, which would bring into question it's ability to handle G loads. Things for me to look into I guess.
Tom.
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  #15  
Old 10-15-2016, 05:55 PM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 774
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I found another post on these Blue Sea contactors. According to a post I found they appear to be made by Gigavac. http://www.gigavac.com/sites/default...tors/gv200.pdf
Here's the post.
Here's a link to the original post for others interested in the thread.
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=48693
Tom.
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  #16  
Old 12-04-2016, 01:47 PM
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rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 3,173
Default inpower

Has anyone played with these? They look quite interesting. 100, 150, and 200 amp. Seems like it would make a good battery and possibly starter contactor.



http://www.inpowerdirect.com/solidst...tors_ssc20.php

Seems to be about $85.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4440...-DC-Contactor/
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  #17  
Old 12-04-2016, 02:57 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
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I spent a lot of time looking at the best option to get rid of the parasite draw (alternative, electrically dependent engine). I wound up with a 'standard' master contactor and two alternators. But my critical engine bus is on a high current switch direct (through a fusable link) from the battery. Also have a switchable redundant path from the airframe bus.

The easiest way around parasite draw, especially if the battery is up front on the floor like a 4/6, is to use a manual battery disconnect. Blue Sea makes them, but so do many other vendors. Some are set up to use a push-pull cable for control, and most can be configured to use a shaft on a universal joint if needed. On a 4/6, just mount it near the battery within reach of the pilot. There are some older certified a/c that use a similar setup (disconnect on/near the panel), even with the battery mounted under or behind the seats. Not ideal in a crash, but the FAA did bless the idea.

Charlie
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