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10-11-2016, 04:40 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: austin, TX
Posts: 62
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I also enjoyed building the tanks. I assembled the tanks a rib at a time. Sometimes two or three per evening. I'm not sure who came up with the method but I would 100% cleco the ribs set in proseal and then come back the next day and wet set the rivets. I used a syringe to put a little proseal in the dimple hole, then dip a rivet in proseal, cover with rivet tape and buck. Then go to the shop side and swirl proseal around it. No leaks
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Cory Bull
Lakeway, TX
RV-10 , Interior done, Engine and avionics remain.
Planning on (3)10" Dynon HDX, Garmin GTN 650 and PS Engineering Audio.
2017 Dues Happily Paid
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10-11-2016, 05:15 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
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I built 2 main tanks plus 2 aux tanks (RV-7) using 1 can of Flamemaster. Sealant stays in the freezer unless I'm actually using it.
As others mentioned, 1 or 2 ribs per session was about right for me. I never mixed more than a golf ball worth at a time; usually less. I did my riveting the old fashioned way, but with much less sealant than most use, on the advice of a 2 time builder. Tiny donut around each hole, insert the rib, dab in the dimple, dip the rivet, set, cover the shop heads when done. End ribs obviously require a fillet on the inside.
Again on another's advice, I used cheap (thin) quart ziplocs to mix & dispense. Turn the bag inside out, weigh mix 'on' the bag, invert, squeeze out the air, zip shut, mix with a roller (short length of 1/2" pvc pipe). Roll the mix to a corner, snip the corner, and use like a cake decorator bag. No syringe loading involved; very little waste, and very neat/clean.
YMMV...
Charlie
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10-11-2016, 06:52 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,029
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I built four tanks (main/aux) using three and a half pints of B4 sealant from Spruce. The working time is longer so I was able to do three ribs at a time.
I scuffed the rivet lines with scotchbrite and cleaned with MEK.
I mixed up a batch at a time using a digital scale, and applied generously to the ribs with a popsicle stick like I was frosting a cake. Trying to apply it with a bag or syringe just wasted sealant, as a bunch was left in the bag or got all over the side of the syringe.
I wet-riveted, as I found it made no more or less mess waiting overnight. If the rivet hole was full of sealant, I just inserted the rivet; if not, I added a bit with a toothpick (dipping rivets just got sealant all over my fingers). Once riveted, I covered the shop heads and filleted the edges with a gloved finger.
I also used a generous fillet on the baffle, applying it just aft of the rivet holes instead of in front, then fillet sealing the aft edge after installation. I used spring clamps in addition to clecoes to make sure I had good clamping to the skin.
Just another technique; use what works for you. I'm of the opinion that adding a couple more pounds of sealant and using it generously is worth the piece of mind, and it's more or less how we do the tank, pressurization, and anti-corrosion sealant on the big airplanes at work. My process is messy (I'm a messy worker on anything, really) but my tanks held air.
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RV-7ER - finishing kit and systems installation
There are two kinds of fool in the world. The first says "this is old, and therefore good"; the second says "this is new, and therefore better".
Last edited by rmartingt : 10-11-2016 at 06:55 PM.
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10-11-2016, 08:04 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 659
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I used the Brown tool applicator gun and really liked it. Those are the only tanks I've built, but it was super easy and clean. Have lots of gloves and just embrace it. It's really not that bad!
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Tim Huneycutt, Capt, NCANG
PC-12 Pilot
N1017H RV-10 Flying 2019
EAA #: 1106970
2020 VAF Dues Paid!
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10-12-2016, 04:49 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,692
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A 60 mil syringe worked for me. And a 10 to 1 homemade balance. Shot wet rivets immediately. Like someone said above, its pretty easy to build a pair of tanks with one quart. Yes, a freezer is your friend for both mixed and unmixed proseal.
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Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
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10-12-2016, 06:19 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Park Ridge, NJ
Posts: 640
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Excellent feedback. I did see the suggestion in the build plans about using a syringe to apply the proseal. seems like a good idea. i would think that its a pain in the neck to stuff the proseal in there, but the syringe seems like it would be less messy when applying.
I guess I would attempt the 1 to 2 ribs per session approach. seems like most folks have had good luck using it. i need to get this done in the next month. its starting to get colder in the northeast and i'm going to have to do this in my unheated garage to minimize the fumes in the house.
charlie
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10-12-2016, 06:32 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 532
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If I were making my tanks today, I would use higher quality senders than the ones included with my kit (early 1990's vintage wing kit). The senders I have seen from EI and Cirrus are much more robust. They both have better shaped floats to minimize empty and full errors. I would also recommend the programmable gauges to compensate for the inherent nonlinearity of a float type sender.
Also, I would recommend you alodine all the tank parts. Once an aluminum part is etched and alodined, its surface remains stable for a long time and will provide a good surface for sealant adhesion. Even if you " scuff as you go", its hard to match the adhesion quality of the alodined surface. You will note that the data sheets from most (or all) of the polysulfide manufacturers provide performance data based on alodined aluminum substrates. For example: http://www.ppgaerospace.com/getmedia...b.pdf?ext=.pdf
Good luck,
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10-14-2016, 06:04 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Park Ridge, NJ
Posts: 640
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Thanks again for all the great tips. So reading all of this and what i can find online, am I correct in that there are really two schools of thought...
1. Dab proseal on the rib flanges around the rivet holes only
2. Smear proseal on the whole flange of the ribs
Thanks
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10-14-2016, 07:02 AM
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been here awhile
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,301
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I didn't find the tanks to be that big a deal. The key to a good experience is to think ahead and be methodical. Here are my notes on fuel tank construction:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/tanks2.html
The second tank will go much faster than the first. 
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10-14-2016, 07:04 AM
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been here awhile
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,301
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I didn't find the tanks to be that big a deal. The key to a good experience is to think ahead and be methodical. Here are my notes on fuel tank construction:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/tanks2.html
The second tank will go much faster than the first, I found one quart of sealer to be plenty. Seventeen years later the tanks are still good. 
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