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10-03-2016, 02:23 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hinckley, Ohio
Posts: 2,065
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SERVICE BULLETIN 13-12-19 Fuel Tank Attach Modification
I acquired an older factory-built fuel tank that has never been used. I am in the process of doing the latest SB and have decided to remove the tank lid to make the job easier and more thorough. So far I have removed all the rivets for the strengthening plates and also all the rivets on the tank lid. I have tried using a single edge safety razor blade to slice thru the Pro-Seal on the lid flange and I’m finding this to more difficult than I had imagined. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to lift the lid off the tank? Does Pro-Seal soften with heat from a hot air tool?
__________________
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Jim Stricker
EAA #499867
PPL/ASEL 1970 - Sport Pilot since 2007
80 hrs Flying Aeronca Chief 11AC N86203
1130 hrs Flying 46 Piper J-3 Cub N6841H
Bought Flying RV-12 #120058 Oct 2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 622 
LSRM-A Certificate 2016 for RV-12 N633CM
Special Thanks... EJ Trucks - USN Crew Chief A-4 Skyhawk
MJ Stricker (Father & CFI) - USAAF 1st Lt. Captain B-17H
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10-03-2016, 02:42 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,247
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A little heat probably can't hurt any. I found it easier to use a utility knife so I had a handle with which to get some leverage. Taking the lid off is a good call... it's much easier to do the modifications that way. Just be careful about the vent line.
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Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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10-03-2016, 02:46 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 1,365
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Here's how I done it
No heat needed, just use a couple of thin knives.
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Tony
E-LSA RV-12 ULS
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10-03-2016, 04:27 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hinckley, Ohio
Posts: 2,065
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Thanks guys. I'm heading to the basement with a good amount of determination...
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Jim Stricker
EAA #499867
PPL/ASEL 1970 - Sport Pilot since 2007
80 hrs Flying Aeronca Chief 11AC N86203
1130 hrs Flying 46 Piper J-3 Cub N6841H
Bought Flying RV-12 #120058 Oct 2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 622 
LSRM-A Certificate 2016 for RV-12 N633CM
Special Thanks... EJ Trucks - USN Crew Chief A-4 Skyhawk
MJ Stricker (Father & CFI) - USAAF 1st Lt. Captain B-17H
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10-03-2016, 05:01 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,247
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Have patience... and yes, as Tony pointed out, wedges help too.
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Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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10-05-2016, 02:30 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hinckley, Ohio
Posts: 2,065
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In my original post I stated that I tried to use a single-edge safety razor blade to slice thru the Pro-Seal on the tank lid. I liked the idea of using the thin blade so as not to distort any aluminum, so rather than slicing I now lightly tap the razor blade with a hammer straight through the Pro-Seal joint. The razor blade spans 1-1/2 rivets on the tank lid, which makes it easy to index the razor to the next position. The blade is taped in until the back safety edge meets the tank lid. A pliers is used to pull the razor back out. No twisting or prying is required.
I only mention this technique as a reference in case there is ever a need to peer into the bowels of the tank sometime in the future.
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__________________
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Jim Stricker
EAA #499867
PPL/ASEL 1970 - Sport Pilot since 2007
80 hrs Flying Aeronca Chief 11AC N86203
1130 hrs Flying 46 Piper J-3 Cub N6841H
Bought Flying RV-12 #120058 Oct 2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 622 
LSRM-A Certificate 2016 for RV-12 N633CM
Special Thanks... EJ Trucks - USN Crew Chief A-4 Skyhawk
MJ Stricker (Father & CFI) - USAAF 1st Lt. Captain B-17H
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10-05-2016, 05:28 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 11
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Vans sells a product, search for "POLYGONE 300AG" in their parts list. Perhaps it would be useful?
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10-05-2016, 06:45 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,247
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I bought some of that when I pulled my tank apart. It works, more or less, but if I were doing it again I don't know that I would bother with it. I can probably scrape sealant off quicker and with less mess. It would be more useful on dimpled parts, I'm sure.
__________________
Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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10-05-2016, 07:15 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jesup, Iowa
Posts: 1,657
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My 2 cents worth - -
I have done multiple tank updates and have found a flexible blade putty knife and a hammer will take a top off in 10 minutes. I then use a wire cup on an angle grinder to quickly clean old sealant off. You have to be careful how you do the wire brush, but works fast.
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John Bender
Flying RV-12 - Serial #120036
Paid in May ( 5-2020 )
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10-06-2016, 05:16 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Gloversville, NY
Posts: 1,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBPILOT
I have done multiple tank updates and have found a flexible blade putty knife and a hammer will take a top off in 10 minutes. I then use a wire cup on an angle grinder to quickly clean old sealant off. You have to be careful how you do the wire brush, but works fast.
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Ditto. Get a couple of putty knives and go at it!
__________________
John Peck, CFII, A&P, EAA Tech Counselor, Flight Advisor.
?Master Pilot? Award, UFO Member.
RV-12 N37JP 120176 Flying since 2012.
One Week Wonder Build Team, OSH 2018.
VAF paid through 10/2019.
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