|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

09-15-2016, 03:28 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sarasota Fl
Posts: 168
|
|
Proseal cure before riveting?
Beginning my RV7 wing and looking ahead to the fuel tanks. The instructions say to rivet while Proseal is wet, I think I may have heard of letting the Proseal cure with clecoes before riveting but haven't found much info on it. Seems like it would allow you to take your time riveting, with wet rivets of course. Is this an acceptable practice and with good results?
|

09-15-2016, 03:38 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
|
|
That's the way I did it. The tanks held air. We'll see if they also hold fuel.
Dave
|

09-15-2016, 03:55 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Leesburg, va
Posts: 213
|
|
I would not recommend this approach, riveting while wet allows the rivets to set fully and gets the proseal all around them, then I put a layer on top of the set rivets as well.
It is not as hard as you think to rivet them wet, it just takes planning and I used the tubes of proseal in a caulking gun which really make it easier.
|

09-15-2016, 06:14 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Socal
Posts: 453
|
|
You dont have to be in a hurry, as long as you set the rivets within the same day you are good. the 2 hours (or whatever the cure time is) is just how long it takes before you cant really work with it any more. Its still nowhere near dry.
What seemed to work well for me is use masking tape to mark off the area where you want pro seal on the tank (makes clean up alot easier), put pro seal on both the tank and rib, cleco every hole, then when you remove a cleco to put a rivet in, use a tooth pick to apply a little pro seal in the dimple that way the rivet is sealed too.
Once that is done, come back later and put pro seal on top on the shop end on the rivet to ensure it is all sealed up.
Its not that bad. I found my limit to be about 2 or 3 ribs at a time.
__________________
RV-8 N695RA flying
Working on an RV-4
Born to fly, forced to work
|

09-15-2016, 09:29 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
|
|
Rivet cured
Someone's got to be different. 
I allowed mine to set for a day then riveted.
But, every cleko (100%) had a 4-40 nut on the opposite side for extra tension.
I set all the interior ribs, taped the aft open end to keep tension on the baffle end then cured one day while working the other tank. Then back to the first to rivet.
Mine held 27" on the manometer for a month before I called them good. Hopefully they hold fuel too! 
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
|

09-15-2016, 09:43 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 215
|
|
Let set for a day or so
I did the same as Wirejock, following the advice of one who had gone before me. Waiting a day makes the Proseal much less gooey, but it is still very pliable. I did a small amount of riveting when still wet and found that the Proseal would ooze out from the rivet gun impact. I believe (with no real data to prove it) that I obtained a better seal by waiting a day. I think there are others on this site that recommend this as well. Do a search on Proseal.
David
__________________
David Dalton
Longmont, CO
RV-7 Complete,
Flies like a dream!
Lifetime VAF Member
|

09-16-2016, 05:01 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sarasota Fl
Posts: 168
|
|
Thanks for the input, still not sure what I will do but both, I still have a little while to think about it.
|

09-16-2016, 05:36 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Perth ont
Posts: 71
|
|
Proseal time
I let the proseal cure for about two weeks prior to riveting the tanks. 17 years of flying later I had no leaks or smoky rivets. Definitely would do it again
|

09-16-2016, 08:27 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,029
|
|
I found it equally messy riveting immediately vs. waiting, and so went with riveting immediately.
For what it's worth, the shop manuals for the big airplanes I work with note that either method is acceptable for sealed parts (we seal almost everything, not just fuel tanks, for corrosion and pressurization). However, it also notes that spring clecoes alone do not provide adequate clamping force for the "let it set" method. For riveting immediately, they are acceptable because the rivets will provide the rest of the clamping.
__________________
RV-7ER - finishing kit and systems installation
There are two kinds of fool in the world. The first says "this is old, and therefore good"; the second says "this is new, and therefore better".
|

09-16-2016, 08:43 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: 45G, Brighton, MI
Posts: 1,867
|
|
__________________
Miles (VAF# 1238, Paid up as of 2018)
RV-7 TU 904KM (reserved)
Wings Fitted and Finish Kit on site
Construction Log
Picasa: Empennage Album, Wings Album, Fuselage Album
1955 Cessna 170B flying since 1982
'To get something you never had, you have to do something you never did.' -Unk.
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:47 AM.
|