Advice / Suggestions on Painting the Interior

[Brett H]

I am point in time where I need to paint the interior. The Finish Kit has arrived and I am almost ready to start on it.

I have the full interior package. So, a minimum amount of painting will be needed. Also, I primed the interior aluminum pieces.

Two questions.

Regarding gloss and matte / flat paint, any reasons to pick one over the other? Are reflections an issue?

The interior pieces are the Pewter / Ash color combination (i.e. gray). Also, based on the small area to be painted, my lack experience painting with a spray gun and I am planning on doing this at home, my plan is to use a ?rattle can?. Any suggestions on color / brand of the spray paint?

Thanks.

Brett Herrick
Columbus, Indiana

[Kyle Boatright]

I've found Rustoleum brand rattle can paint to be the most durable, although it takes a while to cure.

As far as matte and gloss go, I'd recommend a darker color and flat paint to minimize reflections inside the canopy. I have my interior paint is a gloss tan and the reflections are noticeable when I'm taking pictures from inside the canopy. Otherwise, I don't notice them.

[Raymo]

Also went with Rustoleum rattle can gloss almond. I tried some other paint that was a matte finish and those areas are more difficult to wipe clean and vacuum.

Did not consider reflections as a problem but will see in 4-6 months.

[rapid_ascent]

I'm going with the Jetflex WR like many others here. I have the paint now and I'm just at the point of starting to do some spray testing on some scrap pieces. We'll see how it goes this weekend.

[John-G]

JetFlex WR worked well for me as well.

Tips: Spray it first onto scrap parts ... there IS a learning curve if you are looking for a smooth finish. It is a very thick paint (think almost as thick as sour cream) and it does require a little thinning with distilled water ... and, in my case, I also needed a larger tip on the spray gun to obtain the desired finish.

Cleanup with an ammonia and water mix, then acetone to remove the film left behind after the big stuff is cleaned up. The paint forms a film almost instantly when it hits air, so don't leave the lid off the can any longer than necessary to pour. I also found spraying wine preservative (a mix of argon and/or nitrogen) into the can prior to putting the lid down tight really helps keep the paint fresh in the can.

The paint is very durable after a couple weeks of curing.

[Zac@AerosportProducts]

Brett

Try out the SEM Color Coat Aerosols. Rattle cans that are very easy to work with and they have a variety of greys available.

Zac

[funflying]

When I was painting the interior, 2011, I contacted vans about the color used on the parts received already powder coated. I took as many parts as practical to a local powder coat facility who used the same Cardinal colors. I had the parts, flap handle, seat backs, inspection panels, fuel tank neck, etc powder coated the same grey color. I also bought from them cans of shake-n-shoot matching grey color. I used the spray paint on the sides, under the panel area, and the exposed baggage floor area. Not much in the imagination department but it came out nice in my book.
The panel got a stone (grey speckle look) darker grey powder coat from the Cardinal color chart.
I still get some reflection but not bad.

[snopercod]

I used Zolatone Apollo Gray. It's a "splatter" type waterbase finish, dull, and has proved to be very durable after two years. Requires a primer on aluminum, I think.

[XOverZero]

I was in the same quandary when the time came and I did the same thing?got on the jungle telegraph and asked around. I heard from two or three trusted sources that they?d had excellent results with the Jet Flex WR, applied with a very inexpensive HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. Bruce Hill on this forum was the first. I had precisely zero experience with a real live spray gun and was hesitant to go that way, well?let?s make that ?terrified.?

The other option I was considering was the same you mentioned, SEM spray cans. I primed quite a bit using the SEM self-etching primer. Results were top notch but the cost was breathtaking. That paint is about $17 per can and it used a lot. So what?s a mother to do? The cost factor pushed me to give the gun a try ? or should I say give it a shot? (Sorry ?bout that.)

I bought the Jet Flex from SW in San Diego and the exact model number gun (69705) from my local HF for 30 bucks cheap, and opted to try it on some test pieces first. I tweaked the adjustments and the spray distance until I found what seemed to be the best combination, then shot some scrap flaperon skins and the underside of one of the baggage floors. About 20 minutes later when the paint was completely flashed off, I was delighted to behold that it looked as perfect as any pro could do it. I went ahead and did the whole interior floor and sidewall bulkhead assembly based on the test result. It was that good. That gun and that paint really work. I couldn?t be happier (and more relieved).

The finished job turned out every bit as good as the test pieces. No runs, no drips, no errors. Just follow the directions that come with the paint and the directions for the gun. Shoot with everything within the recommended temperature range. Keep the gun moving, equidistant from the work surface and at right angles to it. Overlap the passes about 50%. If your air is dry and the parts and the painting environment are clean ? I mean really clean ? expect success.

One observation: After I had finished the test pieces, I was at first convinced I had blown it completely. One of the worst orange peel jobs ever was lying there mocking me to scorn. Must?ve had some or all of the adjustments and techniques wrong. But then, as the paint started to flash it flowed out and laid right down beautifully.

This is supposed to be about education and recreation. I?d say jump in and get both. Happy airplane building.

[majuro15]

John, did you have a decisant dryer on your air line or just a moisture separator?