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  #11  
Old 09-01-2016, 02:18 PM
az_gila's Avatar
az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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Smile

Another option is to use either of these wig-wag flashers that are solid state and don't care about the loads if you go to lower power LED lamps. They do need an inrush limiter for lamps over 85W though -

http://www.periheliondesign.com/wigwagdmnl.htm

http://www.periheliondesign.com/wigwagmnl.htm

It is small enough to just clamp right behind the lighting switches on my panel -

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  #12  
Old 09-01-2016, 06:22 PM
Bicyclops Bicyclops is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: LA, California
Posts: 323
Default Still working to find the right resistance

Copy that Larry. I might try that flasher. My circuit has the flasher wired hot and the outputs switched per the 2 switch Aeroelectric drawing. Is the thing going to be clicking all the time if it isn't switched to a light? If it will flash one light at a time I'd have turn signals. That might come in handy for the occasional head on on the taxiway. ;-)

So, I had success with a pair of 75ohm 5w resistors in parallel on each side. Resistors ran kinda warm, but it did operate for 20 minutes with no hiccups. Then I went with 50ohm 10w and it works for about 2 minutes and then hangs and buzzes the flasher. I think the sweet spot is somewhere around 40ohms. That works out to .36 amps and about 5w.

Ed

Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
I am using that same flasher (from amazon) with my Baja lights and resistors are not required if wired properly. this type of flasher, unlike traditional alternating flashers, does not use current to the light to activate the coil (most use a coil and not bi-metallic springs). It has a timer IC and transistor. It starts alternating as soon as you put 12 volts on the "X" input. You don't want the resistors if you don't need them, as they increase your current draw and produce heat.

Edit: I apologize, it was the EL13A2 that I replaced. It was a CEC X000S6CHHB flasher that operates as I describe above. The EL13 would require resistors.

Larry
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  #13  
Old 09-01-2016, 06:25 PM
Bicyclops Bicyclops is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: LA, California
Posts: 323
Default Panel is already marked

Howdy Gil,

Already silkscreened my panel for 2 switches with w/w in the center position. Don't want to change that now.

Ed

Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Another option is to use either of these wig-wag flashers that are solid state and don't care about the loads if you go to lower power LED lamps. They do need an inrush limiter for lamps over 85W though -

http://www.periheliondesign.com/wigwagdmnl.htm

http://www.periheliondesign.com/wigwagmnl.htm

It is small enough to just clamp right behind the lighting switches on my panel -

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  #14  
Old 09-01-2016, 09:10 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bicyclops View Post
Howdy Gil,

Already silkscreened my panel for 2 switches with w/w in the center position. Don't want to change that now.

Ed
Yes, I had guessed that so it really was for future readers...
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EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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  #15  
Old 09-06-2016, 10:33 AM
lr172 lr172 is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bicyclops View Post
Copy that Larry. I might try that flasher. My circuit has the flasher wired hot and the outputs switched per the 2 switch Aeroelectric drawing. Is the thing going to be clicking all the time if it isn't switched to a light? If it will flash one light at a time I'd have turn signals. That might come in handy for the occasional head on on the taxiway. ;-)

So, I had success with a pair of 75ohm 5w resistors in parallel on each side. Resistors ran kinda warm, but it did operate for 20 minutes with no hiccups. Then I went with 50ohm 10w and it works for about 2 minutes and then hangs and buzzes the flasher. I think the sweet spot is somewhere around 40ohms. That works out to .36 amps and about 5w.

Ed
Yes, the X input has to be switched. My original setup was the same as yours and I was able to come up a with a wiring plan that still worked with the DPDT switch. Let me know if you want a wiring diagram to make it work. Heat wasn't the big issue for me, it was the extra current draw. The primary point of LED for me was to get the current demand down.

Larry
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  #16  
Old 09-06-2016, 10:57 PM
Bicyclops Bicyclops is offline
 
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Location: LA, California
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Default Hey Larry

PM sent

Ed
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