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  #11  
Old 06-07-2016, 05:49 PM
jim etcheverry jim etcheverry is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: fresno, ca
Posts: 35
Default Be Careful here

The real thing to watch for in grease is the thicker (lithium,lithium comples,Calcium,Aluminum Complex and "CLAY"). All mix ok, but Clay and anything else. Shell is a "Microgel" their trade name for "Clay". Be careful most grease are we find in Auto parts and in auto industry use Lithium base. If you mix clay and lithium the two grease will run until it is totally replace. Oil base mineral or synthetic, is not that important (except ester base, most European oil). Both Shell 5 and 6 are Clay base thicker,slightly different temp range. Lucas grease is not a good choose for a sub. I am speak strictly here about the Hartzell prop. For wheel bearings you can easy switch from one grease to other just make sure to purge all clay (Aeroshell) out when switching to a new grease. I would keep Aeroshell in the prop and use anything else on the wheels. You could also use the Aeroshell on the wheels. I like an Aluminum Complex for the wheel it is complete waterproof, something like StaLube boat trailer grease (blue). It like that feature. Clay base are average water resistant. Jusst my 3cent.
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  #12  
Old 06-07-2016, 06:13 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 6,767
Default yes, be careful

I seem to recall that some years ago an Alaska Airlines crash just off shore from LAX was blamed on the stabilator jack screw failing, due to an improper mixing of greases.
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2016, 06:42 PM
az_gila's Avatar
az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1963 View Post
the nose swivel is hardly a moving part compared to a spinning wheel bearing.
I lean toward just a sticky grease that won't run or ooze into areas I don't want ( like the washers)...so I used Lucas/Red Ram sticky #2 red stuff.
......

not rocket science in this application.....a crude hunk of pipe sliding over another hunk of steel...no big pressures or temps here.

my silly opinion, YMMV.
Actually both the Grumman maintenance manual and the Cirrus manual say to put grease on those Belville washers...
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  #14  
Old 08-26-2016, 06:05 PM
ghatch ghatch is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Angelo, TX.
Posts: 76
Default

How much grease are you guys putting into the zerk fitting on the nose wheel fork spindle ? and how often??

Thanks, Gerry
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  #15  
Old 08-26-2016, 09:10 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,821
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jim etcheverry View Post
The real thing to watch for in grease is the thicker (lithium,lithium comples,Calcium,Aluminum Complex and "CLAY"). All mix ok, but Clay and anything else. Shell is a "Microgel" their trade name for "Clay". Be careful most grease are we find in Auto parts and in auto industry use Lithium base. If you mix clay and lithium the two grease will run until it is totally replace. Oil base mineral or synthetic, is not that important (except ester base, most European oil). Both Shell 5 and 6 are Clay base thicker,slightly different temp range. Lucas grease is not a good choose for a sub. I am speak strictly here about the Hartzell prop. For wheel bearings you can easy switch from one grease to other just make sure to purge all clay (Aeroshell) out when switching to a new grease. I would keep Aeroshell in the prop and use anything else on the wheels. You could also use the Aeroshell on the wheels. I like an Aluminum Complex for the wheel it is complete waterproof, something like StaLube boat trailer grease (blue). It like that feature. Clay base are average water resistant. Jusst my 3cent.
I have used this for 36 years in my aircraft bearings Warrior and RV6A and the nose gear...... A perfect grease for this application.... Found at Napa autoparts.
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