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08-23-2016, 10:21 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse
I don't know that I completely agree with this. I do agree with the other comment that 14AWG wire is not good to jump it with, but it is good enough to charge it with then start the engine after it's charged. The way he does this uses the female on the battery side. Unless you have a hardware store that sells male-male extension cords, you can't accidentally plug it in wrong. It's actually a very simple and clean way to charge it up IMHO.
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I've seen many less than sailor proof setups get used wrong and this one screams "go ahead - try me". Why do this when there are simple and better options?
As far as jump starting, I'm in the camp that a jump started airplane is less than safe as there is no telling if you killed the battery, or how long you will fly with little to no battery reserve. If the battery needs to be charged, charge it. If you abused it and it does not hold a charge, replace it - then go fly.
Carl
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08-23-2016, 11:01 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,291
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While I largely agree with Carl's statement above, one must understand there are some circumstances where a jump start is the only option available. This particularly applies to remote locations where no charging facilities exist (I can think of quite a few places I've flown that were several hundred miles from the nearest 115VAC outlet...).
Having the ability to jump start the airplane without putting ground crew at undue risk is a great idea. I haven't yet decided on a solution for our particular aircraft but am leaning towards a Piper-style plug on the underside of the engine bay, likely mounted such that it would be accessed through the cooling air exit area. This would make it easy to carry a mating plug in the aircraft with large alligator clips to allow attachment to a battery or booster cables. To reduce the risk of shorting I would employ the super-easy technique of having the (+) and (-) leads cut to different lengths so the alligator clips cannot make physical contact with each other.
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08-23-2016, 11:28 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich
I watched the video and would not recommend doing this. Mixing common AC plugs with hard connections to a battery is asking for someone to figure out how to plug your battery to AC power.
There are hundreds of options to do this using unique connectors that will not be mistaken for something else.
Carl
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He's showing the female end to be left with the plane. Going to take quite a bit of effort to have someone accidentally connect a male-male 120 volt extension.
Personally, I use a 12-14 ga set of custom jumper/charging cables. Large alligator clips on each end. Connects to the battery though the oil door. I've used it 10-15 times over the life of the plane. It stays in my AC tool bag.
BTW, leave the strobes on all the time. It'll help prevent leaving that master on.
__________________
Bryan
Houston
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08-23-2016, 07:52 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 2,574
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I would still be careful with those cables, it is still possible for those cables to short on each other. All that is required is for the longer one to have a loop or fold back on itself to use up the extra length so that the normally longer one can still touch the shorter one.
I always clip the ends to the middle of the cable somewhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian_JOY
While I largely agree with Carl's statement above, one must understand there are some circumstances where a jump start is the only option available. This particularly applies to remote locations where no charging facilities exist (I can think of quite a few places I've flown that were several hundred miles from the nearest 115VAC outlet...).
Having the ability to jump start the airplane without putting ground crew at undue risk is a great idea. I haven't yet decided on a solution for our particular aircraft but am leaning towards a Piper-style plug on the underside of the engine bay, likely mounted such that it would be accessed through the cooling air exit area. This would make it easy to carry a mating plug in the aircraft with large alligator clips to allow attachment to a battery or booster cables. To reduce the risk of shorting I would employ the super-easy technique of having the (+) and (-) leads cut to different lengths so the alligator clips cannot make physical contact with each other.
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__________________
Steve Smith
Aeronautical Engineer
RV-8 N825RV
IO-360 A1A
WW 200RV
"The Magic Carpet"
Hobbs 625
LS6-15/18W sailplane SOLD
bought my old LS6-A back!! 
VAF donation Jan 2020
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08-23-2016, 09:00 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Wet, Western Washington
Posts: 157
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Jumper cables
I was in the marine supply store today and saw the perfect setup. They have jumper disconnect pigtail kit for a trolling motor setup. 10 gauge Cable with nice polorized connector. Connect the ring terminals to the battery near the oil door and then splice on some 10-12 gauge duplex cables to some alligator clips for the battery. I think I will buy a couple of these to have a spare. Again, charge only, don't crank the engine on it.
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Greg RV-7 flyer
Donated Again
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08-24-2016, 06:27 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,291
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"I would still be careful with those cables, it is still possible for those cables to short on each other. All that is required is for the longer one to have a loop or fold back on itself to use up the extra length so that the normally longer one can still touch the shorter one."
Steve - as you've so accurately pointed out, care is ALWAYS required when using jumper cables. Nobody likes it when a simple boost turns into a light show! :-) This "one short, one long" technique works very well when the difference in lengths is just a bit greater than the length of the typical booster cable clamp - say 8-10 inches. I used to make these up for the fly-away field kits for the helicopter fleet I was supporting. I likely made up 60 or so of them and they received rave reviews from the field crews.
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08-24-2016, 09:53 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Garden City Texas
Posts: 878
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I left my master on at a remote airport early this spring and when I came back to the plane a few days later, It was dead. I have a female 1/4" phone plug installed into the lower firewall lip. I filed a notch out of my cowl so that it slips over the plug. It is wired direct to the battery and is fused with a 30 amp fuse. I carry the male 1/4" phone plug in my toolbox in the plane. I inserted the plug and hooked up battery cables to the plug and the ground on the exhaust stack. I let the car Idle about 30 min and it charged the battery good enough to start the plane. Not possible to jump start because of the fuse. Fortunately, it appears my Odyssey wasn't damaged noticeably.
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09-15-2016, 08:49 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Mansfield Australia
Posts: 19
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Jumper and Charge Cable
I purchased a female Piper type aircraft fitting from Aircraft Spruce. I connected the positive central connector to the positive terminal of my Odyssey battery, using the same gauge cable that I used to the starter motor. The charge receptacle was attached to the engine mount next to the engine oil filler.This was done with a fabricated bracket and 2 adel clamps. The earth part of the receptical was was grounded to the the common earth at the firewall.
When I open the oil filler door , I can either charge the battery or jump start the engine using a fabricated jumper lead set which has the complimentary Piper male fitting attached.
The female fitting inside the cowling is protected with a spring lid so no foreign objects or oil will short out the terminals. The system works well with almost no risk of shorting the system and enables easy battery charge after software upgrades on the ground.
I adopted this system whilst building this plane , having had very poor access to the battery in a previous RV6. I' borrowed' this idea from a fellow builder.
Jeff Rowlands
RV7A
Mansfield. Australia
Last edited by bardample : 09-19-2016 at 02:44 AM.
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09-16-2016, 10:44 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.sun
I was in the marine supply store today and saw the perfect setup. They have jumper disconnect pigtail kit for a trolling motor setup. 10 gauge Cable with nice polorized connector. Connect the ring terminals to the battery near the oil door and then splice on some 10-12 gauge duplex cables to some alligator clips for the battery. I think I will buy a couple of these to have a spare. Again, charge only, don't crank the engine on it.
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care to post a picture or a link?
__________________
Scott Black
Old school simple VFR RV 4, O-320, wood prop, MGL iEfis Lite
VAF dues 2020
Instagram @sblack2154
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