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  #1  
Old 08-18-2016, 05:51 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,646
Default How to Ditch your PlanePower Alt for $172.94 or Less

A couple months ago, in the midst of trying to figure out recurring failures on my Plane Power alternator, I started the alternator reliability poll which confirmed that I was not the only one having troubles. I thus began the process of switching to the 35A automotive version that Van's originally sold and provided support for. I liked the ready availability of the parts (both at home and on cross-countries) and at a cost that was far less than the PP alternative. It's pretty hard to beat the cost of a $23 alternator, even if I pre-emptively replaced it every annual! ) For the majority of VFR aircraft, this is certainly more than adequate in terms of power output. This installation has so far proved completely successful for me.

This post is not meant to convince anyone that the automotive version is right for them, but for those who do want to switch, below should be a complete listing of all parts that could possibly be needed to do the conversion. Thanks to those who went before me in the forums and to Van's for helping me identify the needed parts.

Hope this helps those who may follow.

Local Autoparts Store
35A alternator for 1976-79 Honda CVCC w/out air conditioning, [#14184]* $23.99
VR166-type voltage regulator suitable for 1975 Ford LTD, [#VR730] $21.99
Alternator Belt, Gates XL 7350 (size required may vary depending on your engine/ring gear)**$8.81

B&C Specialty
FastOn 0.1875" red connectors for voltage regulator [#RFO18-10] $3.00
FastOn 0.1875" blue connectors for voltage regulator [#BFO 18-10] $3.00
Overvoltage protection module with drawing, 14V [#OVM-14] $40.00

Vans***
Boss Mount alternator bracket [#VA-151-2] $38.00
Connector plug for 35A alternator [#ES 50-01205] $5.40
Alternator tensioner arm [#VA-152-1] $12.00
Alternator Installation Instructions [#DOC-ALTERNATOR 35/60] $3.00
5/16-18x1" bolts (qty. 5) [#BOLT HEX 5/16-18x1] $0.90
5/16-18x1" drilled head bolts (qty. 2) [#BOLT HEX 5/16-18x1 DH] $2.70
8.8 M5 metric drilled head bolt (qty. 1) [#BOLT METRIC 8.8 M5 DH] $1.96
Altenator mount lockplates (qty. 2) [#HW LOCKPLATE ALTERNTR] $3.30
5/16-24 metal lock nuts (qty. 2) [#MS21045-5} $0.80
5/16 lockwashers (qty. 1) [#WASHER LOCK 5/16] $0.07
AN960-516 washers (qty. 6) $0.30
AN960-516L washers (qty. 4) $0.32
AN5-11A bolt (qty. 1) $0.49
AN5-13A bolt (qty. 2) $1.02
AN5-17A bolt (qty. 1) $0.89

MISC
1/8" steel from local hardware store to fabricate alternator bracket to starter support if needed $1.00

TOTAL $172.94

Notes:

*Alternator #14129 is apparently functionally equivalent to the #14184 except that its fan vanes are pointed to push air a different direction. If using the alternator without the fan, which is how Van's supplied #14184, then #14129 may be used if more readily available--Fan easily removed with impact wrench. The store can usually do it for you.

**Various versions of Van's alternator installation instructions call out Gate 7350, 7355, or 7360 belts--again, the size is dependent on your installation and whether you install the alternator with or without the fan. The easiest thing to do is buy all three from the auto parts store and just return what you don't use.

***Not all parts listed from Vans are necessarily required for your installation but are what used to come in the hardware bag Van's supplied for the 35 and 60 amp ND alternators it sold.

Vans wiring diagram for their 35A and 60A alternators can be found in the FWF drawing #OP-10.
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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 08-18-2016 at 05:53 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-19-2016, 05:34 AM
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bret bret is offline
 
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I'm new to this arena, but what the heck is failing on these things? I acquired a certified 70 A PP out of a Mooney, are there many differences in this one and the 60 A? not flying yet, just want a feel for what to expect as far as reliability. in the survey it looked like B&C and PP were close?
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  #3  
Old 08-19-2016, 06:51 AM
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miyu1975 miyu1975 is offline
 
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Wink

Well if it's certified it must be better, right..
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  #4  
Old 08-19-2016, 06:55 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bret View Post
I'm new to this arena, but what the heck is failing on these things? I acquired a certified 70 A PP out of a Mooney, are there many differences in this one and the 60 A? not flying yet, just want a feel for what to expect as far as reliability. in the survey it looked like B&C and PP were close?
You should be fine, Bret, PP has a production problem on the 60A with the stator becoming loose and breaking the wires. This ( 60A mind you ) one has solid wires that wrap around a screw to secure them not an eyelet, so if the process pulled them tight then it does not take much movement to fatigue them. There were other vibration failures too, connector, brush holder and brushes, so it might be other related issues. Also it was on the units right after Hartzell took over, so again if yours has a little age then you are again fine. Not a definitive answer, but you could call Hartnell and ask about the progress of the investigation and give your serial number for evaluation.

Sad we have not heard what PP is doing to fix this issue.

I think you should revisit the survey thread, auto and PP were close, B&C seemed to stand out, way out.

Outstanding post, Steve! Well done. Did you determine what makes one alternator 35A and the other 60A with the same stator, housing, bearings and armature?
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Last edited by BillL : 08-19-2016 at 06:58 AM.
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  #5  
Old 08-19-2016, 07:48 AM
49clipper 49clipper is offline
 
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Location: Belleville
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Default 49clipper

Do they automotive alternators listed above come in a larger amperage? I sure could use a 45A unit, but I would like to stay with the unit I have.
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  #6  
Old 08-19-2016, 07:52 AM
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petehowell petehowell is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000 View Post
It's pretty hard to beat the cost of a $23 alternator, even if I pre-emptively replaced it every annual! )

Good Show, Steve!! It may be even cheaper......Lifetime warranty with free replacement on many of these. My "Samurai" has had a replacement in its 1675 hrs. Walk into store - they test on the bench, here's a new one........ Thanks!

I call my plane "Samurai" when I am looking at the alternator.......

Caveats - I only fly VFR with minimal electrical loads.
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  #7  
Old 08-19-2016, 10:24 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
Outstanding post, Steve! Well done. Did you determine what makes one alternator 35A and the other 60A with the same stator, housing, bearings and armature?
Thanks Bill. No, I have no idea on that question.
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  #8  
Old 08-20-2016, 08:29 AM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Is the $23 alt internally regulated?
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  #9  
Old 08-20-2016, 08:50 AM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is offline
 
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Jim,

One weekend a while ago I decided to do an investigation of the alternator options. I went searching for all of the auto alternators that might work and also the other options. I put all of this information in a word doc as a set of notes so when I actually got around to needing an alternator I'd have the information.

PM me with your email address and I send you my notes that I put together.
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  #10  
Old 08-20-2016, 08:57 AM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000 View Post
It's pretty hard to beat the cost of a $23 alternator, even if I pre-emptively replaced it every annual!
Excellent write-up!

If replacing the 14184 alternator at every "annual" fits your needs, then the "life-time warranty" for your 1979 Honda alternator will come in handy.

However, since my RV-6 was put in service in 1999, I have used three of these cheap alternators. The first one (purchased from Vans, no fan) went about 900 hours (killed the diodes after jumping off a dead battery), the second had bearing problems at 150 hours, and the third has been trouble-free for the past 250 hours. I suggest you pull the belt off the alternator pulley at each inspection, spin the pulley to insure the bearings feel good, then fly it for another year.

I'm still driving the Honda....
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Last edited by Sam Buchanan : 08-20-2016 at 08:59 AM.
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