Skirts

[cdeerinck]

In attaching the skirts, I have used 100% Sika between the plexi and frame, so there are no holes through the canopy. I have holes in the lower skirts and frame where there is no plexi, and will use countersunk screws and Sika there.

All of the edges came down fairly nicely, except the top lip. As you can see in the picture, I have about a 1/8" gap in some spots. I wish the skirts had less of a curve to them along that edge, so you had to pull them into more of a curve, rather than the slightly too much. It would have made this so much easier.

For people who have gone this route, how did you deal with closing this gap
and clamping it while the sika dries?

I imagine that because the sika remains flexible after drying, that it would not be wise to glue it under pressure, because when the clamps are removed, the sika will flex.

Also, as a separate question, I have tapped 8-32 holes in the frame for the skirt screws, but I don't know if I can trust threads in that thin of a material. Do people generally tap the holes, or enlarge them and use rivnuts?

[Steve Ashby]

Just glue the skirt on with Sikaflex, using clecos to hold it on till it dries. You can get enough adhesive distance between the skirt and the frame by sandwiching a small rubber o-ring between them. The cleco goes through the fiberglass skirt, then the o-ring and into the frame. When you glue it all together, just smooth the filets with a gloved finger. Also use the Sikaflex to fill the gap at the top. It will all look good. It worked great on mine.

Again, forget the screws. The Sikaflex will hold the skirt on without them.

[Blain]

I used blind rivets to attach skirts then Sika fillets on the bottom only of the lower horizontal frame tube and above the upper hortizantal tube. So no Sika visible from cockpit. Does that make sense? I think the Sika alone would be fine but a few rivets couldn't hurt.

The skirt to canopy has the required thickness of Sika using Popsicle sticks. Then a smooth fillet with wet finger to finish it off.
Here are a few low quality pics;

[cjhammes]

If you want to reduce the gap at top you need to cut through the skirt (in the upper transition area) to create a "hinge" so it can lay flat against canopy. Try to cut 95% through skirt leaving material to allow for a hinge point. (Obviously skirt off canopy when cutting) Tape flat against canopy, fill in and glass over. Given the skirt is curved from front to back, you will likely have to create multiple hinge points every foot or whatever works best. Hopefully that makes sense.

[cdeerinck]

Great guidance guys, thank you very much. One final question: Did you glass the two skirts together in the back before or after installing permanently on the frame?

Blain -- That is a sweet little mod you did to go over the slider rail. Any guidance on how you did that?

[cjhammes]

I glassed mine closed after.

[jump4way]

My build process was just the same as yours... Sika canopy to frame and blind rivet skirt to frame. No holes in the canopy bubble. I glassed the skirt before I installed them permanently. I had some gaps at the skirt to canopy joint initially, I managed to get most of the gaps out by working that flange with a heat gun and seaming pliers or something similar. Took quite a few on/off cycles to get it where I wanted it but it turned out well.

[Blain]

Originally Posted by cdeerinck

Great guidance guys, thank you very much. One final question: Did you glass the two skirts together in the back before or after installing permanently on the frame?

Blain -- That is a sweet little mod you did to go over the slider rail. Any guidance on how you did that?

Pull the two sections together and glassed the joint. Can't remember what I used for the shape of the rail. Simple fiber glass layup on both. My last couple projects were custom Corvettes. Lots of fiberglass practice.