wiring tosten grip

[F1Boss]

We can all agree that the lower area of the stick is sometimes highly stressed..so let's drill that hole where we know the stresses are less.

Wouldn't that be near the top of the stick? So drill the hole near the top and run the wires outside to the bottom. It's probably best to drill the hole in the side as opposed to the front or back...

There are many ways to cover this wire bundle that would look professional.

Carry on!
Mark

[Mike S]

Originally Posted by simatos

I guess I'm wondering since relay is doing the work, why power the grip?



Thx G

You need to send power to the grip so it can activate the coil in the relay.

Tostin has great color coded wiring diagrams, just follow them and you should be fine. http://tostenmanufacturing.com/wp-co...eck_wiring.pdf

[simatos]

Thanks again you guys. Mike I have looked over the Tosten relay schematic again and I think I understand how to go ahead with the wiring. Last bonehead question for the weekend:
With elevator in Neutral position, what position would be best for control stick??
In the straight vertical position seems to me to be a bit forward and tilted a little back seems better but I wonder what others have done. I dont seea recomended position in the plans. Thanks for all your great suggestions and clarifications. Cheers G

[drone_pilot]

I have the Tosten grips. I went straight thru and out the bottom of the stick. I tied the wires to the pushrod between the sticks and exited them off at the center tunnel. I purchased tefzel wire with the same colors as that on the sticks to keep things a little clearer in the future if I ever need to tear into it. I'm using the VP-X so I ran home runs of wire from the stick all the way to the VP-X. It turned out much cleaner than my original plan to install a terminal strip between the floor ribs not to mention the limited space to work in. As an added bonus, it all worked electrically too! Just keep in mind that where you have movement/flex in your wiring to perform exits and loops so that the wire is flexed more longitudinally rather than laterally. Better for the wire to be twisted down its length if it has to move.

[bruceh]

I used the Tosten grips and had the wiring just come straight out of the bottom. I did a couple of modifications on the passenger stick to make it plug in and be easily removable. Stick buttons I used are the Hat for trim, trigger for PTT, small button under PTT for AP disconnect. The left and right buttons under the hat switch are for flaps up/down. The VP-X limits the flap operation to speeds below 78 Knots for the RV-9A, so no problem accidentally hitting them during cruise, since they are basically disabled.

My build log for the wiring is here.