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  #11  
Old 07-31-2016, 05:50 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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The hone is what I was thinking of. You didn't mention it in your first post. What kind of hone are you going to use?
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  #12  
Old 07-31-2016, 06:47 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed View Post
The hone is what I was thinking of. You didn't mention it in your first post. What kind of hone are you going to use?
I thought that may have been the case, as new rings without honing is pointless, I agree.

I was just going to use a three arm hone with 240 grit stones. I had thought about hitting it lightly with a 400 grit after the 240. I have a sunnen, but I don't think it will go past 5"

Larry
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  #13  
Old 07-31-2016, 11:21 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Steel cylinders?
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  #14  
Old 08-01-2016, 05:43 AM
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RV8Squaz RV8Squaz is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
Ok, I just found an article outlining the details. Apparently the narrow decks all had the threaded "Case bolt" (i.e. stud threaded into the case) and the wide decks used the "Body fit" (i.e. interference or close tolerance) bolts not threaded into the case.

Thanks for the help.

Larry
Larry,
Not quite. I have a wide deck IO-360A1A (I realize my engine is completely different than yours). My engine was manufactured with 3 different thru-bolt designs, the threaded kind, the interference fit kind, and the floating kind. Give Lycoming a call and they will tell you exactly what you have based on the serial number on the case. I went through this a number of years ago, so I don't recall who I spoke with, but he was very helpful. If you have a case made by a different manufacturer (i.e., Superior or someone else) you will need to call them. If your the case was overhauled by CSI or Divco, you will need the yellow tag or other supporting documentation that has the original Lycoming serial no. because they might have filled and stamped over the original number. Ask me how I know!
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  #15  
Old 08-01-2016, 06:20 AM
8 ball 8 ball is offline
 
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Default New rings

I see nothing wrong with rings only on a 120 hr. engine. A&P # 1572130. Go to work.
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  #16  
Old 08-01-2016, 07:08 AM
mahlon_r mahlon_r is offline
 
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body fit or anchored thru bolts on Lycoming crankcases can be easily identified.
If you look at the crankcase above the starter. you will see the back end of the thru bolts that go to the front cylinder on the opposite side of the engine. If you see two nuts with fat washers securing the starter side of the thru bolt then you have body fit thru studs . If you see the end of a stud that is flush with the outside of the case, with not nuts or washers, you have anchored thru studs. All Lycoming engines use thru studs, N/D cases always had anchored thru studs. W/D cases can have either anchored thru studs(earlier design) or Body fit thru studs( later design). The rear most thru studs are always anchored regardless of case vintage or style.
Hope this helps.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
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  #17  
Old 08-01-2016, 07:38 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed View Post
Steel cylinders?
Yes. It is a mix of plain steel and nitrided.
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  #18  
Old 08-01-2016, 07:41 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by mahlon_r View Post
body fit or anchored thru bolts on Lycoming crankcases can be easily identified.
If you look at the crankcase above the starter. you will see the back end of the thru bolts that go to the front cylinder on the opposite side of the engine. If you see two nuts with fat washers securing the starter side of the thru bolt then you have body fit thru studs . If you see the end of a stud that is flush with the outside of the case, with not nuts or washers, you have anchored thru studs. All Lycoming engines use thru studs, N/D cases always had anchored thru studs. W/D cases can have either anchored thru studs(earlier design) or Body fit thru studs( later design). The rear most thru studs are always anchored regardless of case vintage or style.
Hope this helps.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
Thanks Mahlon!
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  #19  
Old 08-01-2016, 02:00 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahlon_r View Post
body fit or anchored thru bolts on Lycoming crankcases can be easily identified.
If you look at the crankcase above the starter. you will see the back end of the thru bolts that go to the front cylinder on the opposite side of the engine. If you see two nuts with fat washers securing the starter side of the thru bolt then you have body fit thru studs . If you see the end of a stud that is flush with the outside of the case, with not nuts or washers, you have anchored thru studs. All Lycoming engines use thru studs, N/D cases always had anchored thru studs. W/D cases can have either anchored thru studs(earlier design) or Body fit thru studs( later design). The rear most thru studs are always anchored regardless of case vintage or style.
Hope this helps.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
Mahlon,

I have a N/D case. Does the center through bolt thread into the right case half like the rear through bolt?

Larry
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  #20  
Old 08-05-2016, 07:27 AM
mahlon_r mahlon_r is offline
 
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yes it does.
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