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  #461  
Old 05-19-2016, 08:02 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmilingJack View Post
Wow Andy! You are doing some awesome work!

I think we need to submit your name for the annual "Dan Horton" award for professisonal fiberglass workmenship.

I appreciate the nomination, But my plane would look like chopped liver next to DanH's......well maybe ground chuck roast.
Meanwhile I'll keep learn'n and a build'n hopefully getting better with each project.
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  #462  
Old 05-24-2016, 10:10 AM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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I made another "plug" to simulate the reinforcement ring of the inlet duct out of the same HDPE I've used for the rest of the project. I made the radius 1/16" larger than the inlet ring to give me some wiggle room, after I sanded things smooth it was probably more like 1/32 larger. Since the cowl split line doesn't bisect the center of the circle I also squared the sides of the HDPE plug tangential to the half circle (not sure how else to word it) so the top cowl can slide over the top of the inlet duct reinforcement rings.



I paired the new HDPE plug up with one I previously made for the inlet rings bonded to the cowl. The center hole used by the circle jig in the router makes a handy centering pin.



I was originally going to layup over the rubber ducts, but the diffuser shape was in the way to do a decent glass job. I clamped in the HDPE plugs and epoxy/floxed around the ring and glassed over the top.



After some sanding the joggle is looking pretty good.



The smidge larger depth worked out well, I had to do some sanding on the thickness to get things sliding in and out properly. I may shim my plug slightly wider for the next 3 joggles. The inlet ring/duct fits pretty well.



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  #463  
Old 05-24-2016, 10:48 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Nice work, Andy - you are becoming a real glass master.
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  #464  
Old 05-24-2016, 11:59 AM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Originally Posted by BillL View Post
Nice work, Andy - you are becoming a real glass master.
Thanks for the compliment Bill, but I feel like a slightly above average glass master. I think mastering fiberglass is a lot like mastering golf, my glasswork is much better than my golf game!
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  #465  
Old 05-24-2016, 12:43 PM
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bret bret is offline
 
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Nice work there. Are you and Dan the only ones doing this rubber factory stuff? pretty cool how those turned out. I like it.
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  #466  
Old 06-21-2016, 10:33 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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I'm finally back at it, I made some clamping strips for the intake boots out of scrap. I planned on AN525 screws for the inside of the boot except for the top plenum to boot junction, it will have nutplates and threads sticking into the incoming air.



My CHT's have been pretty balanced, but decided to do a little mod for the front of #2 just in case. I had already filed the casting slag from the fins but I also cut an extra .063 clearance and made a doubler plate in front of the zero fin depth area.



Very basic bending skills to make an oversized blank renforcement doubler with a 2x4 with a filed radius corner and my river gun and flush set to match the bend on the existing baffling.



If I would've thought this through before making the upper curved baffling it would e been 1 piece instead of 2. Oh well.



I made he necessary holes to use adel clamps for my electronic ignition pickup wires to the baffling, by silicone seemed to work better.

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  #467  
Old 06-21-2016, 10:42 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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I taped up things to make a seal for the plenum. Ultra black stuck to the plenum and waxed tape on the baffling to leave a re-usable gasket.





[IMG][/IMG]

It left a good seal overall, slightly ugly but will be covered. I smeared both edges with Ultra Black but should've used a little bit more to make it wider and more consistent.



I found my aluminum #7's and used a dead blow and a hydraulic jack for an anvil and beat them to fit the cowl.





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  #468  
Old 06-21-2016, 10:48 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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I dremel'ed and filed out the 7 cutout to fit.





I'm glassing in a flange to hold the back of the 7 and secure the front outboard edges of the cowling.





1 more trial fit of the intake boots before I seal them in place.



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  #469  
Old 06-22-2016, 02:25 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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There's probably an easier way to do this but I'll think of it after I do it the hard way. I used short sections of tubing as a compressible spacer behind the 7's, next step is to tape/wax parts I don't want to stick and fill the void with epoxy/micro and screw the 7's on flush.



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  #470  
Old 06-23-2016, 08:57 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Here's the 7 screwed into position over a bed of epoxy/micro with a rivet set holding one corner in position. I'm also dressing up the horizontal edges of the cowling. So far I've found what works best for me on fixing the edges/lines in the glass is to fill the gaps with epoxy/micro and after it semi cures to run an old credit card down the gap once the epoxy mix reaches a "cold peanut butter" state and then sand off the excess with a block on the outside and needle file in the gap.



I put an extra thick layer over the aluminum 7 because the epoxy/micro seemed to shrink in the gap as it dried.



It took longer to find my sanding block than it did to sand off the excess, I was really surprised how well my aluminum 7's fit the cowling curvature.



I used a needle file to cut in a paint gap to match the cowling split line between the 7 and the cowling.



The recess is mostly done, I still have to split the cowl and remove the yellow tubing for the hinge pin. Too bad I forgot about taping a small section of the top cowling that is now stuck to the lower cowl, I'll figure that out tomorrow.

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