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  #11  
Old 06-07-2016, 06:16 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oklahoma City
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Did you ask if you could countersink it and then use a pull rivet? It's not so much the removing the tank that I'm concerned with it's the riveting with a bucking bar part.
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RV-10, N10JW
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  #12  
Old 06-07-2016, 07:26 PM
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ERushing ERushing is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Underwood, WA
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You might call Vans and ask. I don't think I'd machine countersink the skin.

Bucking it was really no big deal. I just used the normal think tungsten bucking bar in one hand and the rivet gun in the other. Trust me. I have plenty of blems on my lower wing skins so I'm not the bees knees when it comes to riveting...

To dimple it, though, you do need to grind down one edge of the female pop rivet dimple die so it fits right. Took quite a lot of grinding. But it worked just fine.
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  #13  
Old 06-08-2016, 08:07 AM
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CharlieWaffles CharlieWaffles is offline
 
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Location: West Linn, Oregon
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I definitely wound up going back for more tubing because I didn't get enough. I think I used about 10 sticks. Some was scrap, some broken or bad flares, etc. Be sure to call to make sure hey have it in stock. Stock can vary with them from time to time.
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  #14  
Old 06-08-2016, 08:17 PM
bwestfall bwestfall is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID
Posts: 163
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Yeah definitely call ahead. I spoke w/the owners Jeff & Dave a month ago or so and they are planning to close down the business soon (likely this summer). As a result they haven't been stocking stuff so you need to call ahead specially if your driving in from out of town.
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  #15  
Old 06-09-2016, 07:05 AM
brad walton brad walton is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
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Before installing light in 2nd bay, I would check with Vans since this may affect the structural integrity of the wing. This is a stressed skin structure and the skin provides the wing with some part of its strength
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