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  #1  
Old 05-26-2016, 07:34 PM
Capt_Riney Capt_Riney is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Danville, Indiana
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Default Back Riveting problems on RV-7 rudder

I am trying to back rivet the stiffners to the rudder skins. The back rivet set (with plastic guard) diameter is 0.75" which is too wide to be able to center the set on the rivet head. The side of the plastic guard interferes with the side of the stiffner and therefore won't center on the rivet. The result is sort of a "glancing blow" on the rivet and one ugly rivet. I thought about removing the plastic guard on the rivet set but can't do that without tearing it up. Can you buy "narrow" (like <1/2") back rivet sets? Should I just use a straight rivet set with out the plastic guard?

Capt Riney
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  #2  
Old 05-26-2016, 07:43 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt_Riney View Post
I am trying to back rivet the stiffners to the rudder skins. The back rivet set (with plastic guard) diameter is 0.75" which is too wide to be able to center the set on the rivet head. The side of the plastic guard interferes with the side of the stiffner and therefore won't center on the rivet. The result is sort of a "glancing blow" on the rivet and one ugly rivet. I thought about removing the plastic guard on the rivet set but can't do that without tearing it up. Can you buy "narrow" (like <1/2") back rivet sets? Should I just use a straight rivet set with out the plastic guard?

Capt Riney
I don't remember this being an issue. What is your distance from the edge and curve of the stiffeners? I remember holding it in place with my fingers.
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2016, 08:00 PM
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scrollF4 scrollF4 is offline
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Default Is ham Tools

Mark,
Call the folks at Isham Tools (http://planetools.com/rv-tool-kit/

Their back-rivet spring-loaded bit that comes in their kit is a touch narrower, and features a metal guide barrel rather than the wider plastic one you're dealing with. I found it much easier to use on those narrow rudder stiffeners. Call them and order one over the phone. They're great folks and make superb tools.
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2016, 08:15 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Guard

How about grinding one side flat till it clears?
Mine has two opposite sides ground flat. Works in twice as many tight spots.
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2016, 08:46 PM
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Warbo Warbo is offline
 
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What Wirejock said. Although the one that came with my tool kit from Brown Tools already had one flat side.
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2016, 09:10 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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I've used the back-riveting set without the plastic part a few times. A 1/2" box-end wrench fits around it and can be used to hold the parts flat and together. Don't know why an open-end wrench couldn't be used the same way if you can work two-handed and stand the crudeness of the method.

Dave
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  #7  
Old 05-26-2016, 09:20 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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I also had issues backriveting the stiffeners. The back rivet set requires a bit more air pressure. In a couple of situations, I just went back to good old mushroom set and bucking bar. Those seemed to come out just fine. If one method isn't working, try another.
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  #8  
Old 05-26-2016, 10:23 PM
Naigool Naigool is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ollon Switzerland
Posts: 78
Talking Same as David Paule

I found the same problem and decided to take the plastic and spring out! It's easy just need to take the axle out and it's done!
Then it will be easy to work centered on your rivet! Take care of the air pressure; too much and your skin will be destroyed!
Enjoy

Nicolas
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  #9  
Old 05-26-2016, 10:52 PM
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SMO SMO is offline
 
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Use your concave rivet set. I recall reading somewhere that this is a valid method to set the the rivet even though it leaves a rounded shop head - the internet can't be wrong, can it?
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  #10  
Old 05-27-2016, 01:16 AM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
 
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Location: Stockton, California
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Back riveting, to achieve acceptable results, needs the spring and sleeve in order to keep the assembly tight until/as the rivet clinches.

When needing maximum structural strength, it is not an acceptable method.

But that need is rarely necessary and, if it were, the diligent engineer would likely add a note on the plans.

It's totally acceptable to "home-brew" a smaller diameter back rivet set. I have one in the .375 diameter range. It is what I'd use for close work like described in this thread.

FWIW

mjb
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