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05-26-2016, 07:34 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Danville, Indiana
Posts: 21
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Back Riveting problems on RV-7 rudder
I am trying to back rivet the stiffners to the rudder skins. The back rivet set (with plastic guard) diameter is 0.75" which is too wide to be able to center the set on the rivet head. The side of the plastic guard interferes with the side of the stiffner and therefore won't center on the rivet. The result is sort of a "glancing blow" on the rivet and one ugly rivet. I thought about removing the plastic guard on the rivet set but can't do that without tearing it up. Can you buy "narrow" (like <1/2") back rivet sets? Should I just use a straight rivet set with out the plastic guard?
Capt Riney
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Mark Rinehart
RV7 Quickbuilt kit
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05-26-2016, 07:43 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt_Riney
I am trying to back rivet the stiffners to the rudder skins. The back rivet set (with plastic guard) diameter is 0.75" which is too wide to be able to center the set on the rivet head. The side of the plastic guard interferes with the side of the stiffner and therefore won't center on the rivet. The result is sort of a "glancing blow" on the rivet and one ugly rivet. I thought about removing the plastic guard on the rivet set but can't do that without tearing it up. Can you buy "narrow" (like <1/2") back rivet sets? Should I just use a straight rivet set with out the plastic guard?
Capt Riney
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I don't remember this being an issue. What is your distance from the edge and curve of the stiffeners? I remember holding it in place with my fingers.
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Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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05-26-2016, 08:00 PM
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Moderator, Asst. Line Boy
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flower Mound, TX
Posts: 1,473
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Is ham Tools
Mark,
Call the folks at Isham Tools ( http://planetools.com/rv-tool-kit/
Their back-rivet spring-loaded bit that comes in their kit is a touch narrower, and features a metal guide barrel rather than the wider plastic one you're dealing with. I found it much easier to use on those narrow rudder stiffeners. Call them and order one over the phone. They're great folks and make superb tools.
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Scroll
Sid "Scroll" Mayeux, Col, USAF (ret)
52F NW Regional/Aero Valley Airport, Roanoke TX (home of DR's Van Cave)
"KELLI GIRL" N260KM RV-7A tipper
Catch her on YouTube's "Because I Fly!" channel
Exemption waived.
Proud and grateful 2020 -=VAF=- Contributor
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05-26-2016, 08:15 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Guard
How about grinding one side flat till it clears?
Mine has two opposite sides ground flat. Works in twice as many tight spots. 
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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05-26-2016, 08:46 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canberra, Australia
Posts: 57
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What Wirejock said. Although the one that came with my tool kit from Brown Tools already had one flat side.
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Ian Warburton
Canberra, Australia (the nation's capital)
RV-7A #74351 Empennage finished (including the tips)
RV-8 VH-DAF (part-owned)
PA-28-140 VH-IAL
Working on wings and fuse
https://rv7warbo.wordpress.com/
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step."
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05-26-2016, 09:10 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
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I've used the back-riveting set without the plastic part a few times. A 1/2" box-end wrench fits around it and can be used to hold the parts flat and together. Don't know why an open-end wrench couldn't be used the same way if you can work two-handed and stand the crudeness of the method.
Dave
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05-26-2016, 09:20 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,370
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I also had issues backriveting the stiffeners. The back rivet set requires a bit more air pressure. In a couple of situations, I just went back to good old mushroom set and bucking bar. Those seemed to come out just fine. If one method isn't working, try another.
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05-26-2016, 10:23 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ollon Switzerland
Posts: 78
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Same as David Paule
I found the same problem and decided to take the plastic and spring out! It's easy just need to take the axle out and it's done!
Then it will be easy to work centered on your rivet! Take care of the air pressure; too much and your skin will be destroyed!
Enjoy
Nicolas
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05-26-2016, 10:52 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Salmon Arm, BC
Posts: 933
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Use your concave rivet set. I recall reading somewhere that this is a valid method to set the the rivet even though it leaves a rounded shop head - the internet can't be wrong, can it?
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Mark Olson
1987 RV-4 Sold
2003 Super Decathlon - Sold
F1 EVO Rocket, first flight May 31/14
First in line for the Sonex JSX-2T kit
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05-27-2016, 01:16 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Stockton, California
Posts: 296
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Back riveting, to achieve acceptable results, needs the spring and sleeve in order to keep the assembly tight until/as the rivet clinches.
When needing maximum structural strength, it is not an acceptable method.
But that need is rarely necessary and, if it were, the diligent engineer would likely add a note on the plans.
It's totally acceptable to "home-brew" a smaller diameter back rivet set. I have one in the .375 diameter range. It is what I'd use for close work like described in this thread.
FWIW
mjb
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