VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.


Go Back   VAF Forums > Main > RV Ongoing Maintenance Issues
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #51  
Old 09-29-2015, 12:18 PM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
Posts: 2,637
Default Oil Pressure

My understanding is that the 115 limit was primarily to keep people from panicking over above red line readings following a cold start.
The new Cessnas reading of 80 psi is really 90 psi. That is Cessna's version of the mushroom theory regarding dealing with pilots. Politely stated the less information we provide to the pilot the less the pilot will worry.
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 10-30-2015, 06:52 PM
johnfurey johnfurey is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 233
Default Add me to the list

Of those with a stuck valve. I have a new YIO-360-M1B with 312 hrs. Twice in the last week I have had the symptoms of a stuck valve. Today with the help of a friend we found the #2 exhaust valve to be very stuck. We basically followed the well documented instructions provided by Mike. I use avgas only and run LOP most of the time. Philips XC. Has anyone found a reason for this or a way to prevent it?
__________________
John Furey, RV7. Ohio
Life's Short...Fly Often!
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 11-19-2015, 09:48 PM
Bud K's Avatar
Bud K Bud K is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Shell Knob, MO
Posts: 144
Default Me too!

I too have had a problem with #2 exhaust valve sticking on my TMX360. Fortunately, the first time it occurred I was on the ground at initial start up. After shut down and restart, the problem was gone. I too saw the CHT on #2 staying at ambient temp. The second time was during a condition inspection when it wouldn't hold pressure during the compression test. My A&P recommended 4 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in each tank at fill up and I haven't had a problem since after more than 150 hrs.

The high oil pressure discussion is interesting. I typically run 85psi at operating temp and felt that this was very high (based on my automotive background). I use Exxon 20w-50 oil.

When it first happened, I thought that it could be my LOP operation. I typically run slightly lean of peak. I continue to run slightly LOP and haven't had problems.
__________________
Bud K
5MO7
FFR Roadster (sold)
RV-7 (sold)
Legal Eagle - Flying
N676Q RV-4 - Flying
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 05-04-2016, 02:17 PM
brad walton brad walton is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 533
Default

I have a Superior IO 360 with mags on both sides in my RV with 325 hours on it. I have have had several incidents of my number 2 cylinder EGT dropping very low and the engine running rough as if only running on three cylinders. It only lasts for a few seconds, so its hard to note other changes. My response has been to come back on power and richen mixture. But its usually over by then.
My oil pressure has always run high, I use 100 LL only, change oil every 25 hours and oil filter every 50 hours. I usually run ROP ,but occasionally LOP if at low power settings. My only real sin is I warm up the engine at low RPM's, usually about 700 because it runs smooth and vibration free at that RPM. I have recently read a Lycoming article about idleing the engine at 1100 to 1200 RPM's so as to run the the engine hot enough to activate the the lead scavageing chemical in the fuel. I have changed my warm up accordingly.
I am in the mdst of checking the number two exhaust valve and reaming if necessary. My spring compressor and ream are ordered and should be here tomorrow.
More to follow.
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 05-04-2016, 03:35 PM
turbo's Avatar
turbo turbo is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stuart, FL /Hartford, CT/Virgin Gorda,BVI
Posts: 3,175
Default

i payed my mechanic $80 to do a complete wobble test of all 4 cylinders on my rv. i have a mid time engine with no indicated problems. a new engine is set up with .010 " clearance on the exhaust valve. at tbo it will wear to .035". all of my exhaust valves were worn to about .020"-.024". a log entry with the SB and values entered = done. be safe out there. turbo out.

__________________
TURBO YES =VAF= Payed Jan2021
Ed D'Arcy
RV6-A 5,300+ hrs, R-44 1,600 hrs, Helicycle traded for 33 FFR coupe, 300 young eagles flown
Stuart, Fl / East Hampton,Ct / Virgin Gorda, BVI - villa sold.
VAF #840 EAA AOPA FAC FABA QB SPA
addicted pickle ball player
https://i.postimg.cc/tn3h4svg/IMG-3101.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 05-05-2016, 01:32 PM
duanehopper duanehopper is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2
Default IO-360 Cylinder Ring Replacement

I had a similar EGT dropping issue on #3 cylinder, usually about half-way through climb-out.

Turned out to be a corroded cylinder ring on #3 which apparently allowed oil into the combustion cycle once temperatures increased sufficiently, causing EGT cooling on #3 and a little rough running.

Took a couple of takeoff cycles to put the complete picture together, then a bore scope inspection on #3 and subsequent disassembly to see where the problem arose. New rings, no problem afterward.

Hope this was helpful.
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 05-05-2016, 04:17 PM
Boyd Birchler Boyd Birchler is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: IN
Posts: 254
Default

I would look at the injector for visible obstruction and if cleaning it does not get resolution, I would look for trash floating around in the fuel distributor clogging the line going to the injector.
Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old 05-06-2016, 02:59 PM
brad walton brad walton is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 533
Default

Thanks again to Mike Bullock, the OP, for his detailed post.
My #2 exhaust valve was indeed stuck so that I could not turn or push by hand. I'm amazed it ran so well with only an occasional complaint.
I followed closely what the OP did including especially his great tip on compressing the lifter to get the rocker reinstalled. It took me a lot longer than several posters seemed to indicate. I'm sure it will go much more quickly next time. It was an 8 hour project for me. I'll button it all up tomorrow after taking some time to make sure its all back where it should be, tools accounted for etc.
I'm looking forward to hear it run.
Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old 04-20-2017, 07:22 PM
bullojm1's Avatar
bullojm1 bullojm1 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,047
Default New Tool!

[Update to my home-made valve compressor tool]

So my #1 issue with my home-made valve compression tool is it is a royal pain in the *** to put the rocker arms back on as I have to compress the hydraulic lifters. I decided to make an alternative pivot point for my valve compressor tool. Previously, I put a socket extension through the rocket shaft hole, and use that as a pivot point to place my tool on. I thought I could make an alternative pivot point on the bottom of the cylinder using some leftover aluminum angle. I started off with a leftover piece of AA6-125-1.2x2 angle, cut to 3" in length.


On the 2" side of the angle, I cut out a centered 2" wide section.


This would leave 1/2" on either side.


The finished product.


Next I needed (4) 1/4" diameter holes. They would be separated by 2 7/16" horizontally, and 1.5" vertically. Additionally, they would be offset on the vertical axis by 7/16".


And here's the result - this bracket screws into the existing valve cover holes.


The next step was to "mill" out a hole for the valve compressor to insert into and pivot around. The hold would be offset from the bottom by 1/8", and it would be 7/16" x 1".


Not my best work, but a 1/8" drill and a unibit with some filing at the end gave me a good enough hole.


The finished product with my home-made valve compressor next to it.


This is how the two parts will interface to each other. The "tab" on the back of the valve compressor tool gets inserted into the "slot" I made in the angle.
__________________
Mike Bullock
RV-7, Flying!
http://www.rvplane.com
EAA Technical Counselor
The Best FAA N-Number Availability Search Engine -TailNum.com
Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old 04-20-2017, 07:23 PM
bullojm1's Avatar
bullojm1 bullojm1 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,047
Default

First step is to install the new pivot point angle.


Step two is to insert the tab on the back of the valve compressor tool. Lift the handle up and the spring gets compressed!


Worked like magic. I was able to install the rocker shaft nearly instantaneously! This additional tool took about an hour to make...and the best part is it was FREE!
__________________
Mike Bullock
RV-7, Flying!
http://www.rvplane.com
EAA Technical Counselor
The Best FAA N-Number Availability Search Engine -TailNum.com
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:30 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.