Cowl Inlet Ramps - needed?

[lr172]

Originally Posted by rightrudder

Hey Mike,
A lot of folks suggest that you should be able to get your fist between the leading cylinder and inlet ramp. In stock form, the left side ramp was just about perfect, but I cut and re-glassed the right side (left in picture), moving it forward to approximately match the cylinder stagger.

Temps are quite even now in cruise, though #1 is a little hot still in climb. I've cut the air dam in front of it a little more, and will see if that helps on my next flight.

Doug,

When you modified the #1/3 ramp, did you have to install a new baffle seal in that area to close up the gap or was the existing seal able to conform? My plane is flying, but I would like to even things up, like you did, for better cooling. Just wondering if I'll need to re-do seal material in that area.

Thanks,

Larry

[Dorfie]

Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002

Mike,
That is not needed and is actually redundant if the Van's supplied baffle system and associated seals are installed as intended.

Scott,
The RV10 has the prop governor sitting into a cutout in the left ramp. It would seem that a lot of air will enter into the governor cutout and out the sides of the ramp if they are left open?? That air will be lost for cooling and reduce upper plenum pressure I would think.
No such problem on the right I believe because ramp surface is intact.
Is your statement true for the RV10 installation?
Thanks.
Johan

[DanH]

Originally Posted by Dorfie

Scott,
The RV10 has the prop governor sitting into a cutout in the left ramp. It would seem that a lot of air will enter into the governor cutout and out the sides of the ramp if they are left open?? That air will be lost for cooling and reduce upper plenum pressure I would think. No such problem on the right I believe because ramp surface is intact. Is your statement true for the RV10 installation?

If an installation requires a cutout in the upper ramp, it can be sealed with flexible foam, or a solid recess can be built in to mirror the governor. Either way, there is no reason for a leak.

[rightrudder]

Hi Larry,

The existing baffle seal worked just fine with the relocated ramp. I was prepared to cut some new seal pieces, but when I stuck my hand inside the inlet and pushed against the seals, they made nice contact on the ramp. Of course, it might vary depending on how your seals are cut.

Here's what mine look like. I went with a pretty decent overlap.

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by Dorfie

Scott,
The RV10 has the prop governor sitting into a cutout in the left ramp. It would seem that a lot of air will enter into the governor cutout and out the sides of the ramp if they are left open?? That air will be lost for cooling and reduce upper plenum pressure I would think.
No such problem on the right I believe because ramp surface is intact.
Is your statement true for the RV10 installation?
Thanks.
Johan

No, that statement doesn't apply to an installation that has a fwd gov. (there were generalized comments implying it should be done in all circumstances... the reason for my comment). When a fwd gov. is involved, just closing off both ends of the inlet ramp does not seal the leakage path.

I think the RV-10 inlet ramp seals the outboard end so only the inboard end needs to be dealt with.

I cut a piece of soft foam to shape that can be glued inside the ramp, with an ~ half circle piece removed so that it conforms to the top side of the gov. body. It gets positioned laterally so that it aligns with where the upper baffle seal meets the inlet ramp

[ILikePike]

Thanks Bill. I figured someone would show me just exactly how to add a new item to my list of thing to complete to get my plane in the air.