VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Main > RV General Discussion/News
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Today's Posts

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #21  
Old 08-07-2015, 04:25 PM
rvbuilder2002's Avatar
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,027
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Veetail88 View Post
Don't air plenums restrict the intake in the same way? Maybe more so? Just wonderin......
They can, but they don't have too! It all depends on the design.
I know of RV's that cooled better once the builder designed plenum was removed and switch to traditional baffling.
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.

Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 08-07-2015, 05:23 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,208
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Veetail88 View Post
With all due respect to Dan, who is obviously one of the smarter guys on this site, I'm not sure I'm buying into that whole shorter nostril trimming makes the airflow more efficient thing. On it's face, sure, looks good, but isn't the intake volume pretty much dependent on the size and efficiency of the cowl outlets? Don't air plenums restrict the intake in the same way? Maybe more so? Just wonderin......
You're mixing issues. A plenum, by itself, does not restrict airflow. It hopefully reduces or eliminates the air leakage which occurs around typical baffle installations.

That said, IF your plenum eliminates wasting of (say) 10% of your cooling air compared to stock baffles, you can make the inlets and outlet 10% smaller without losing cooling capacity, and will have a lower drag cooling setup.
__________________
Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 04-14-2016, 02:07 PM
rvsxer rvsxer is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Inver Grove Hgts, MN
Posts: 329
Default

[/quote]

What kind of clearance between the #1 cylinder and the inlet ramp (at the "pinch" point, measuring from the cylinder head or barrel) is good to have? What do some of you have on yours? My #1 and #3 both run a little hotter and I don't have that much space there.
__________________
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM w/G3X, 1,600 hours +
South St. Paul, MN (KSGS)
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor

We're all here because we're not all there...
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 04-14-2016, 02:16 PM
rightrudder rightrudder is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,805
Default

Hey Mike,
A lot of folks suggest that you should be able to get your fist between the leading cylinder and inlet ramp. In stock form, the left side ramp was just about perfect, but I cut and re-glassed the right side (left in picture), moving it forward to approximately match the cylinder stagger.

Temps are quite even now in cruise, though #1 is a little hot still in climb. I've cut the air dam in front of it a little more, and will see if that helps on my next flight.

__________________
Doug
RV-9A "slider"
Flew to Osh in 2017, 2018 & 2019!
Tail number N427DK
Donation made for 2020
You haven't seen a tree until you've seen its shadow from the sky -- Amelia Earhart
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 04-14-2016, 03:20 PM
brad walton brad walton is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 524
Default

As a data point, the ramp to #1 cylinder space on mine is about a fist. The ramp to #2 cylinder space is several inches larger. #1 and 3 cht's are evenly cooler than #2 and 4 cht temps.which are evenly hotter by about 20 degrees. In retrospect, I probably should have installed the ramps to better reflect the stagger of the cylinders.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 04-14-2016, 06:29 PM
Doug's Avatar
Doug Doug is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 427
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
... the incoming air becomes turbulent and will not cool the engine properly.
I have always wondered about this assumption since I read an article where John Thorp was quoted as saying "The optimum airflow over the engine is opposite to what you want over the outside of the airplane. You want it as turbulent as you can make it so you don't have any stagnation. What you want is the air to mix to give maximum heat exchange."

It is certainly counter-intuitive and I wonder if there is any science to support either stance. NACA papers perhaps?

How I remember this stuff I don't know - the interview was published in the winter edition of "Air Racing" 1973.
__________________
Doug Gray
RV-6 completed, flying since July 2010
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 04-14-2016, 08:50 PM
rzbill's Avatar
rzbill rzbill is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,690
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug View Post
I have always wondered about this assumption since I read an article where John Thorp was quoted as saying "The optimum airflow over the engine is opposite to what you want over the outside of the airplane. You want it as turbulent as you can make it so you don't have any stagnation. What you want is the air to mix to give maximum heat exchange."

It is certainly counter-intuitive and I wonder if there is any science to support either stance. NACA papers perhaps?

How I remember this stuff I don't know - the interview was published in the winter edition of "Air Racing" 1973.
Thorp is correct when reffering to the air in immediate proximity to the cylinder fins. Between the fins I mean. Turbulent flow is better for local heat transfer. Same could be said for the oil inside the oil cooler. Turbulent is better.

HOWEVER, this should NOT be construed as "turbulent is better at the cowl entrance". Totally different physical process at the inlet. Laminar is better for turning velocity into pressure.
__________________
Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 04-15-2016, 07:12 AM
ILikePike ILikePike is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eatonton, GA
Posts: 215
Default

IF not installing all Vans parts is bad I guess I am in trouble. I didn't install the little fillets in the front outside corners of the baffle. The seals on the front of the cowl fill this area very well. I found that it would make the air filter removal on the left side difficult. I may put a finger sized fillet of RTV in the corners just to fill in the last little bit. Anybody else leave them off?
__________________
Jeff Green
2016 RV-8 #82985
1968 E33C Aerobatic Bonanza
Pleased to donate Dec 2019
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 04-15-2016, 08:48 AM
rzbill's Avatar
rzbill rzbill is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,690
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ILikePike View Post
IF not installing all Vans parts is bad I guess I am in trouble. I didn't install the little fillets in the front outside corners of the baffle. The seals on the front of the cowl fill this area very well. I found that it would make the air filter removal on the left side difficult. I may put a finger sized fillet of RTV in the corners just to fill in the last little bit. Anybody else leave them off?
You talking about here on a horizontal injection cowl Jeff?

I don't think the plans call for it next to the filter. Its a bit fiddly to get one mounted. I was not sure this "mod" would stick. It has.
FYI the upside down flush rivet does not go through the filter mount. It only goes through the "L" bracket directly below so the side panel is loose when the 3 screws are removed for filter maintenance.

__________________
Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 04-15-2016, 09:09 AM
rvsxer rvsxer is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Inver Grove Hgts, MN
Posts: 329
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rightrudder View Post
Hey Mike,
A lot of folks suggest that you should be able to get your fist between the leading cylinder and inlet ramp. In stock form, the left side ramp was just about perfect, but I cut and re-glassed the right side (left in picture), moving it forward to approximately match the cylinder stagger.

Temps are quite even now in cruise, though #1 is a little hot still in climb. I've cut the air dam in front of it a little more, and will see if that helps on my next flight.

Thanks, Doug. Good picture. My RH ramp is about the same size as your old one. I'll probably open that up as you did.
__________________
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM w/G3X, 1,600 hours +
South St. Paul, MN (KSGS)
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor

We're all here because we're not all there...
Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:06 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.