VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Model Specific > RV-10
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Today's Posts

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-11-2016, 06:43 AM
ERushing's Avatar
ERushing ERushing is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Underwood, WA
Posts: 413
Default Questions before buttoning up the QB Wings

Good Morning,

I'm ready to start riveting the bottom skins - finally! But before I do, I had a couple of questions.

1 - I've melted holes in the van's plastic conduit. I'm a little concerned about abrasion on the wires and AOA line that I have running out the hole. Has anyone come up with a good way to treat that hole to avoid abrasion? I've seem some use a braided PET sleeve. Any recommendations of source or particular brand? I have some leftover from RC builds but the stuff is cheap and frays like mad! Other ideas are welcome as well. (I've searched but haven't seen much in the way of recommendation.)

2 - Pitot Service Loops - The AOA and Pitot lines are a bit stiffer than I thought. How have people done and secured service loops? I've got my Gap 26 Pitot located one bay outboard of the pushrod access bay. Pitot/ AOA tubes are already bent and it's kinda tight in there...



Anything else I should think of before closing them up? I've got string run to pull wires, the AP servo bolted in, and the conduit permatexed in place. Also note that I'm going to secure that AOA line and heated pitot wires onto the heated pitot controller plate so it won't just be floating around.... I just need to figure out how I'm going to do the AOA/ Pitot service loop before installing the anchor.
__________________
Eric Rushing
RV-10
90% done, 90% to go.
Looks like an airplane!
Molalla, OR
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-11-2016, 08:09 AM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
Default

While I'm sure it's obvious, make EVERY possible final connection and attachment you can before the bottom skin goes on. Working thru the inspection openings is darn tough and readily done only by dentists.
__________________
Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '18)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-11-2016, 08:28 AM
Mike H Mike H is offline
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Savannah
Posts: 806
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupester View Post
While I'm sure it's obvious, make EVERY possible final connection and attachment you can before the bottom skin goes on. Working thru the inspection openings is darn tough and readily done only by dentists.
I disagree. I like to run the wiring and install control system parts AFTER riveting the bottom skins. It is much easier to get your arm in a rib bay without the wiring and controls in the way. Installing the wiring and controls after the skins is a non-issue.
__________________
Mike Hammond
A&P IA PPL ASEL
RV-14A kit S/N 140170
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-11-2016, 08:33 AM
ERushing's Avatar
ERushing ERushing is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Underwood, WA
Posts: 413
Default

I purposely put the heated pitot controller on a removable plate so that getting into the Pitot bay would be a lot easier!

I do want to do at least an initial install and plan where I'm going to anchor service loops etc before buttoning things up.... hence my questions
__________________
Eric Rushing
RV-10
90% done, 90% to go.
Looks like an airplane!
Molalla, OR
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-11-2016, 10:37 AM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 1,261
Default

I put the heated pitot power lines in a separate snap bushing and only used the conduit for wires that run all the way to the wing tip. I didn't like the idea of having to make modifications with that approach. There are quite a few wires that have to go down that conduit. I also would be worried that they will snag on your intermediate stop wires when you pull that bundle. I actually pulled my wingtip wires in a few pulls as I figured things out like the appropriate wire sizes. Everybody does it differently so whatever works for you.
__________________
Ray Tonks
2020 Donation Paid
Titan IOX-370, Dual PMAGs, 9.6:1 Pistons, FM-150
RV-7 Fuselage in progress
* Cabin Interior - In progress
RV-7 SB Wings
* Both Wings fully skinned
* Fuel Tanks Complete - No leaks finally
* Ailerons Complete
* Flaps Complete
RV-7 Empennage - Complete (a little fiberglass work left)
Vans Training Kit # 2 - Complete
RV-7 Preview Plans
Vans Training Kit #1 - Complete
EAA Sheet Metal Class - Complete
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-11-2016, 11:45 AM
nilberg nilberg is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 233
Default

I would test that you can remove the pitot with the skin clecoed on. It would be annoying if the pitot have to be replaced and it cannot be done with the skin riveted permanently on.

You mentioned you already have bent the tubes. I assume you mean the aluminum tubing coming out from the pitot itself. Garmin recommends minimum 8" of aluminum, how much did you keep ? Do you transition to plastic before, at or after the bulkhead ?

Last edited by nilberg : 04-11-2016 at 11:48 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-11-2016, 11:51 AM
Lynnb's Avatar
Lynnb Lynnb is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Cedar Hill, TX
Posts: 329
Default Flame Retardant? Expandable Braided Sleeving

For any wires not in the conduit, I bought 50' of 1/8" and 1/4" Flame Retardant® Expandable Braided Sleeving from CableOrganizer. I cut it with a hot razerblade so it melts the end as it cuts to keep it from fraying. I run about a foot of it on the wires into the conduit. I then either zip tie, or use a little piece of heat shrink to keep it in place

http://www.cableorganizer.com/firere...gcssku=BSFR025
(If you search you can sometimes find coupons for cable organizer.)

I also added a nutplate on a rib near each of the access panels where I thought I might someday need a local ground.

Lynn

__________________
RV-10 in Process

Last edited by Lynnb : 04-11-2016 at 11:54 AM. Reason: Added Image
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-11-2016, 12:04 PM
ERushing's Avatar
ERushing ERushing is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Underwood, WA
Posts: 413
Default

Thanks LynnB! I'll go order the same.
__________________
Eric Rushing
RV-10
90% done, 90% to go.
Looks like an airplane!
Molalla, OR
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-11-2016, 12:06 PM
ERushing's Avatar
ERushing ERushing is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Underwood, WA
Posts: 413
Default

Nilberg,

I bent it with a pretty large bend radius. (Over my thigh )

I'm using the SafeAir kit so I will be flaring the end of the aluminum pitot probe tubes and using the H/W provided in the SafeAir kit to link to the plastic tubing.

Good point about being able to take it out with the bottom skin on! I'll have to look at that tonight!!
__________________
Eric Rushing
RV-10
90% done, 90% to go.
Looks like an airplane!
Molalla, OR
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-11-2016, 01:27 PM
bpattonsoa bpattonsoa is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Indepenence, Oregon
Posts: 342
Default

Don't use Phillips head screws to mount anything that has to be accessed thru an inspection plate. Use Allen or some other type of screw that captures the driver.

Hard lesson learned.
__________________
Bruce Patton
Rans S-20 Raven 796S flying since 2019 (slowly)
RV-6A 596S flying since '99 (Sold)
HP-18 5596S flying since '89
RV-10 996S flying since 2014, quick build wing and slow build fues., - dual Skyviews with complete system, two radio and not much else. Interior completely finished with Zolatone. CF plenum. 1624 lbs, FLYING after a 21.5 month build.
Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:17 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.