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  #21  
Old 04-02-2016, 06:08 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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I did paint in the basement but used rattle can primer, which has worked well.

My method was to prep everything at the end of my work session; alumiprep and then alodine and let it dry overnight.

I would get up early the next morning, and spray everything, eat, shower, leave for work.

There would be a light order in the basement and much more in the garage.

Since the house would be empty all day, it would be cleared out when we would return home.

A couple of things to think about, once you start spraying in the basement, you don't want to spend a lot of time down there as it stinks! Protect yourself from the fumes!

I built a simple spray table that can be seen in the picture below. was a simple 2x4 frame with chicken wire to lay the parts on. Its advantage was that overspray would blow past your parts and not bounce dirt up on them. I could hang parts from the wire as well.

Because I would be painting over the part numbers, I would write the part numbers or assembly order on the 2x4 frame so I would know where each part was to go in final assembly.


(click to enlarge)
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Last edited by N941WR : 04-02-2016 at 06:13 AM.
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  #22  
Old 04-02-2016, 06:25 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Ekoprime is great for what it does NOT do, but does it provide what you want? And . . . what DO you want? The primer selection (if any) depends on what is wanted.

Corrosion protection for 2024?
Adhesion promoter?
Base coat for 2k topcoats?
Can it be wiped off with acetone?
How much weight will be added?

Read this about a more modern corrosion protection systems that meets all the above. Documentation by the DoD. Already paid for.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=132707

Be sure to read the links they contain the real information. It is better to learn this at the beginning of a build. Otherwise you (we) are depending on the fact that no corrosion protection is needed anyway.
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and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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  #23  
Old 04-02-2016, 06:58 AM
Tom Martin Tom Martin is offline
 
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Do a test with your rattle can primers. Wet it with 100LL then wipe it with a cloth. If it comes off with 100LL then why bother? each time you overfill your tanks, or it weeps from the vent and trails back your fuselage the inferior primer will melt away.
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  #24  
Old 04-02-2016, 07:23 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Martin View Post
Do a test with your rattle can primers. Wet it with 100LL then wipe it with a cloth. If it comes off with 100LL then why bother? each time you overfill your tanks, or it weeps from the vent and trails back your fuselage the inferior primer will melt away.
FYI - I only primed the inside of my aircraft with rattle cans. My painter removed any that showed on the outside and used his primer under the exterior paint. So, don't bother priming the exterior skins, unless you are going to paint the entire plane, regardless of the primer you use.

To Tom's point, do not prime the inside of your tanks with any primer. You don't want to risk it coming off or dissolving into the fuel.
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Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
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  #25  
Old 04-02-2016, 08:15 AM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leok View Post
Organic cartridge respirators are not needed since there is no VOC (organic compounds) in the paint.
The reason I like to use organic vapor/particulate combination respirators is because when using just particulate respirators, it is very difficult to detect if you have any sort of breakthrough around the mask or through the filter when using just a particulate filter, because none of the "smells" are blocked. With combination filters, you can smell when you are getting breakthrough, because you go from being able to smell nothing (apart from what you had for lunch) to being able to smell the surroundings. This is purely my position on the issue, but I have found it works for me.
Cheers. Tom.
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  #26  
Old 04-02-2016, 10:07 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgmillso View Post
The reason I like to use organic vapor/particulate combination respirators is because when using just particulate respirators, it is very difficult to detect if you have any sort of breakthrough around the mask or through the filter when using just a particulate filter, because none of the "smells" are blocked. With combination filters, you can smell when you are getting breakthrough, because you go from being able to smell nothing (apart from what you had for lunch) to being able to smell the surroundings. This is purely my position on the issue, but I have found it works for me.
Cheers. Tom.
I agree. You can tell immediately if there is breakthrough.
BTW, I installed a dryer vent port in the side of my garage and built a exhaust fan box using a Rule 240 bildge blower to blow the bad stuff outside.
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Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #27  
Old 04-02-2016, 05:47 PM
rkiefer2 rkiefer2 is offline
 
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Location: Waukesha, WI
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Thanks everyone for the tips.

I ended up building a down draft table and painted a couple pieces for test. Down draft table works great, and no odors from the paint. Very happy with the Ekoprime adhesion. Even after 20 min of dry time its good to handle and I was struggling to scratch it intentionally.

Here the process I follow please correct me if I need to deviate.
  1. Clean parts with Ekoclean using a cloth
  2. Rinse with water and let dry
  3. Spray with EkoEtch, scrub with 3M maroon scotch bright pad for 3 min
  4. Rinse/Dry
  5. Prime

Questions:
  1. When scuffing the surface with the etch its not necessary to remove alclad service, rather scuff it to give the primer something to stick too. Correct?
  2. How much is too much or not enough primer? I made a sharpie mark an should be able to see it slightly through the primer. Yes/No?
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  #28  
Old 04-02-2016, 06:16 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Scuffing

Quote:
Originally Posted by rkiefer2 View Post
Thanks everyone for the tips.

I ended up building a down draft table and painted a couple pieces for test. Down draft table works great, and no odors from the paint. Very happy with the Ekoprime adhesion. Even after 20 min of dry time its good to handle and I was struggling to scratch it intentionally.

Here the process I follow please correct me if I need to deviate.
  1. Clean parts with Ekoclean using a cloth
  2. Rinse with water and let dry
  3. Spray with EkoEtch, scrub with 3M maroon scotch bright pad for 3 min
  4. Rinse/Dry
  5. Prime

Questions:
  1. When scuffing the surface with the etch its not necessary to remove alclad service, rather scuff it to give the primer something to stick too. Correct?
  2. How much is too much or not enough primer? I made a sharpie mark an should be able to see it slightly through the primer. Yes/No?
The scuffing should be only enough to remove the aluminum oxide layer which is very thin. You can tell because the water coats the surface instead of beading. AO forms again within a few hours so shoot primer as soon as practical. You're actually doing two things.
Removing AO because paints don't stick to it.
Giving the primer some fine scratches for mechanical bond.

No idea on using Ekoprime.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.

Last edited by wirejock : 04-02-2016 at 06:18 PM.
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  #29  
Old 04-03-2016, 10:25 AM
rkiefer2 rkiefer2 is offline
 
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Location: Waukesha, WI
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Took my first crack at Priming, wow what a chore. Below was my Saturday evening.

Any recommendations on scratch or adhesion tests?

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  #30  
Old 04-03-2016, 10:54 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Tests

Those are pretty.

My favorite tests.
1. Give a test part to Sweetie. If her razor sharp nails can't scratch it, it passes the scratch test.
2. Cut a 6" piece of Gorilla tape. Fold the end over for a handle. Place it on the test piece and rub it down really well. Leave it over night. Rip it off. If the primer/paint is still on the part, it passes. No failures to date.
YMMV
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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